Land Rover timing chest repair

I was able to take the timing chest down to Daren yesterday and he quickly welded it up for me.

Once I got it home it was my turn to finish up the weld. Using my 4in grinder and a flap wheel I set about removing the weld on the face of the waterpump passage. This done I reamed out the holes so the bolts could pass thru. There was quite a bit of material on the inside or the passage so starting with sanding bits I started to grind it down. Aluminum is notorious for clogging sandpaper and files, so after using 2 bits I gave up and tried a couple of grinding bits. The green one quickly clogged but the brown one just wore away the alli and itself. So then out came the cutting bit. I have a long(for Dremel) straight cutter and that worked well removing large mass fairly quickly. I wasn't sure where to stop so I went to the block and using a piece of card paper I made a template with a machinist hammer. This was then located on the cover and the passage then ground out to fit the shape.

The rest of the inside of the passage was smoothed up for good clean flow and the face hit once again with the flapwheel to remove any burrs and it was finished. The grinding took around 2 hours to do. So I did save myself some out of pocket costs doing it myself.

I have found thru this that my motor is a combination of the motors in the workshop manual. For instance The 2.5D motor is shown having the timing pin in the side of the DPS pump and the flywheel pin in the top of the case. My motor is set up that way. The 2.5DT is shown with the DPS timing pin in the front of the timing cover and the flywheel pin on the bottom of the flywheel cover. For the 2.5D the cam thrust plate is under the cam gear, not so on my 19j. The 2.5DT shows it behind the timing chest, inaccessable until the timing chest is removed.