Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Land Rover test drive--Autumn edition

   It warmed up enough on Saturday to take the 109 down the street. I drove about a mile and turned off at the place I wished to turn around. When I pulled onto the side street I stopped and lifted the bonnet to check things out. To my dismay I found I had not retightened the valve cover.................Quickly the 13mm wrench was out of the tool roll and the cover tightened down. I could tell that leak was stopped but couldn't tell what else might be leaking.
    Then the 109 was turned around and I headed home. I could tell that it was running better than the last time I drove it, AND it was lots quieter! None of the exhaust leak or the clacking valve train noises. When the accelerator pedal was pushed slowly down the speed increased well. If done quickly a whole lot of pedal  down the exhaust let out a cloud of smoke as the turbo delayed kicking in.
     Once home the motor was cleaned of the oil and restarted. This way I could see the leaks. I had 1 of the injector fittings leaking(#3), 2 of the waterpump bolts were seeping, the timing plug on the side of the injector was leaking.

    I tightened the injector fitting and it still kept dripping, so I took it apart and cleaned it up and put it back together. This time it sealed and stopped dripping. If only the rest went that easy!
     With the injector timing plug I looked up the illustrated parts breakdown(IPB) and discovered that an o-ring probably was responsible for the leak. Next the plug was removed and I headed down to the FLAPS and found a new o-ring, I bought 2 spares too! I put it back together.
    While the motor was cooling down I tried tightening the waterpump bolts but that didn't work to stop the seeping. Then the 2.5Dt was started up again to see if the injector pump was fixed. ^%$#@#@! it still leaked! Not the plug though, it was leaking behind the plate the plug is mounted on, I never even took this off.  It was a miserable job to get to it. It also has those damable Torx anti-tamper screws(T25 if anyone cares), I had to use a 1/4' combo wrench on the Torx to remove and replace I can barely get my hand in there. Another trip to the IPB and I could see there was another o-ring behind the plate. So back to the FLAPS, this time no joy as the o-ring was thinner than the ones available. Next stop was the ACE hardware store in town. There I picked up 2 possible replacement o-rings as there was not a clear replacement fit.
    Returning to the Rover I tried the smaller of the 2 o-rings and it fit well. So the plate was refitted. The motor wiped down and restarted. Neither the injector fitting or the timing plate leaked! Since it was almost dark and the motor hot I elected to wait until the morrow to try to stop the water pump bolt seeping.

    SUNDAY; found me pulling the bolt out( at this time I thought it was only 1 bolt leaking) as far as I could and put some blue silicon around it and then I retightened it and wiped the motor clean,,again. I let it sit a while so the silly cone could set a bit.
    As it was setting up I installed a power outlet which combines USB and a cigarette style 12v port. This I located in the parcel tray just to the right of the dash. I also installed the trailer wiring harness. Now both my Landy's can pull my 88 tub trailer!
    Now a few hours have passed and the motor restarted and the leaks all rechecked. This is when I found that the bolt I put the silicon on was dribbling down on another bolt that was seeping. So that one also got the silicon treatment.  Hmmm almost dark again, time to clean up and eat.

MONDAY; I went out to start it and go for a test drive, but the starter would just turn and then the power went out. Sometimes the key turned and no power at all. I traced it down to a lose wire at the starter from the battery and the power feed from the battery to the fusebox. Once this was sorted I took it for another test drive after cleaning the motor and checking for leaks. Doing the same 2 mile trip. This time no big leaks at the turn around. When I get home I can see that the top waterpump bolt is still seeping. There are drips coming off the injector pump. The power steering pump hose has stopped leaking(tightened on Sunday).
    So I begin fussing with the injector pump. It is cleaned and then motor started. The timing plate is not the leak, it seems to be seeping from the timing advance diaphram that I worked on this summer. I am going to try tightening it up again when the motor is cool. That oil pan gets HOT!
     Dark thirty and I retire to my man cave.

TUESDAY; Today, I'm confident I have the leaks down to a dull roar so I'm going to drive it to town and run some errands and put some miles on it. I decided to check the oil, the level is fine but the dipstick tube is very loose. I know from our trip last year from Nebraska a loose tube will lose alot of oil!
    So back under the 109 I crawl, wrenches in hand. An18mm is too big but the 17 too fussy to fit. So I tighten up the fittiing, but the fitting won't go but maybe another thread tighter and still the tube flops around. Why didn't I notice this before? Next the fitting loosened and the tube removed. Now I can see that the threads have been buggered up by someone. I tried to clean them up with my jeweler files but despite my efforts it won't thread more than 1/3 of the way on.
    Bummer no test drive today! I searched the web and the IPB and got the part number for a new tube assy. Part # ERC8980, apparently it comes with the fitting preinstalled. I could not find a fitting listed seperately. I tried to figure out the thread pitch on the fitting but it was not SAE or Metric. So I found Rovah Farm showed then in stock so I gave Trevor a ring. Yes, he had them but they come in 2 different thread sizes and which one did I need? I asked him to send me one of each.............be here Saturday.

    So I was off to do some errands on my Suzuki and I took the tube with me. Obstensibly to show Linus at the Hose Shop what I tried to describe over the phone. Linus was able to figure out that it is 19BSPP thread. Then he dug out a fitting and a cap for it so I could plug the hole and still drive the 109. Once returned to my home I changed clothes and installed the plug, What a bear to get at; between the frame and motor next to the exhaust down pipe, can't get a wrench straight on it. I finally got it in and using all my extensions and the wobblie and a deep 7/8" socket I got it tight. Started the motor and no leak. By now it was dark again. The waterpump bolt still seeps so I will tackle that Wednesday and hopfully go for a drive.

Sorry there is no pics, I'll try to get some to-morrow.

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