109 Land Rover update

I know, I know you are all wondering and before PVKD emails me asking what's going on.....

I received my new power steering pump and changed that out. What a mess! Had to remove the air cleaner and the alternator to get at all the fittings and slacken off the belts.

Drain the fluid. and get a facefull in the process.

At this point I decided to try to rectify the hoses going under the frame issue. I took a piece of SS 5/8" tubing I had left over a tried bending it with heat and various shapes until I got an almost 180 degree bend. Then I could cut the existing hose and put in the 180 thereby keeping the hose out from under the chassis and avoid and pinching which might occur due to the close proximity to the shock.

I was also able to reroute the other hose to the pump along the frame rail and keep it out from under the frame also.

At the same time in order to help alleviate the engine oil loss I decided to remove the turbo which has been(I think) a source of the oil in the intake. I am sending it down to North Hollywood to get a new cartridge from Invasion Auto Products. They will also check my boost acuator to make sure it is working. That went in the mail on Thursday. So we shall see.

TTFN

Land Rover crappy parts!

I had put in a brand new wiper switch. It failed on the trip back from Pescadero. At first there was a momentary stall in low. Then later on low speed wouldn't work at all. Finally the next day high speed failed and it wouldn't work at all. Probably a Britpart sourced switch.
     Today I switched it out with an old one I had. and then I took apart the broken switch.

I mean WTF it's designed to run the wipers!?

Today I also checked my oil leaks and I tightened the bottom of the oil separator return line. And pulled the hose off the intake side of the turbo and peeked inside there I could see oil sitting in the hose. So that is probably a major source of my oil leak. Been looking around online some today and checking my options, no decision yet.

Land Rover 109, should be named Leaky.....

When I was putting the 200 in I bought a used power steering pump from a UK breaker who shall remain nameless but initials are CWS....Upon start up the darn thing leaked from the beginning. I tried just running with it thinking it might slow down or stop but no joy. I put some Blue Devil transmission stop leak in and still it leaks.
  Over the weekend I drove the 109 up the California coast on it's longest run so far. Hoping the 2 hours would help the Blue Devil work. When the weather dried enough I checked the fluid level and decided to buy a new pump. I have ordered a new one from Craddocks for 123.00GBP or 176.93USD. Part # NTC8288.

On the plus side the 109 ran fine with 2 exceptions; 1) it kept popping out of 4th gear while on the highway, 2) top speed was only 60MPH gps verified.

   We are getting a few days break from rain so I will look into these.

I don't really want to call it leaky.....or money pit.........

Land Rover 200TDI fuel lift pump leaking engine oil

Yes, like the title says, I was driving my 109 and one morning checked the fluid levels and found my engine oil was below the low level line on the dipstick. So I crawled around looking for the leak and found oil all over the front propshaft, oil pan, oil filter and bottom of the fuel lift pump. Starting up the engine I could see oil pulsing at the end of the pivot for the pump lever.

    I thought I had a spare pump but it turns out the 19J engine and the 200TDI have different pumps. So I ordered 2 from Craddocks. The 200 is part #ETC7869, I went with the ETC7869G which is a Delphi product not some nameless Shitpart like my last one. The 19J fuel lift pump is part #563146.

First a pic of the 200TDI lift pump;

Here's a pic of the 2 side by side

Next the 2 gaskets, the 200 is on top

The gasket was secured to the face of the 200 pump with Permetex blue

And today during a light drizzle I swapped the bad one out for the new one.

I wasn't done yet though! I wanted to find out what I could about the leak so I started to dismantle the bad one. The lever which is in contact with the cam has to be removed by pulling 2 flat locater pins holding it's pivot shaft in the housing. I had to pry off the single sided manual lever in order to remove the pivot pin. Doing this essentially destroys the ability to put the lever back on. Under the lever is a washer to prevent rubbing on the o-ring(my guess).

Once the washer was removed I could see the o-ring. I then was able to knock the pin through the housing a little at a time. This exposed the o-ring on the other side.

The pin came out pretty easy and on one side the o-ring came with it. If you look closely at the center of the pin you can see 2 notches from wear on the cam lever.

Lastly a pic of the pin and o-rings and washer. If one could replace the o-rings and be able to re-attach the manual lever these could be rebuildable. As it is they were $31 from the UK and $40 in the US. My feeling is with shipping probably comes out pretty equal. But I ordered 2 so I have a spare.

I think I replaced the 200 pump when I got it running but could not find a receipt. If so it failed really quickly. Since it had no brand name I can only guess it was a Britpart and that's why I went with the Delphi.

Now ya know!

Land Rover windscreen E-Z nutbar

Ever want to remove the top off your Series Rover but dreaded all the bolts?  Yeah, me too! All those bolts along the windscreen, 10 of em and you can't get at them easily.

Until now!  I made a captured nut plate, well actually 2 of them. I got some 1/8" x 3/4" flat stock in 36" lengths. I scribed a centerline on them.

both of them

I measured the bolts in both my 109 and my 88 and found the hole pattern most likely to be the same across all models. Then I used my extra 88 roof as a template by clamping the flat stock in position and lining up the centerline in the holes. I scribed a circle using the hole itself and measured to the center with a dial indicator.

I figured on an inch on the end before the first hole and marked that so I got past the hole with plenty to hold the roof on. Removing the flat stock I was able to find where I had marked the center of the holes and centerpunched a spot for the drill to start. I did one side at a time just in case I screwed up. It at this point looked like there would be mirror image sides. The distance between the 2 center holes was measured so I could get an overall length for each side. That turned out to be 27.5" and each side would get 5 holes.

I drilled the holes starting with a 1/8" and finished with a 5/16" hole, this gave me wiggle room and still kept me inside the scribed holes. Next the flanged nuts were bolted finger tight to the flat stock for welding.

Once the nuts were welded to the first bar and I was satisfied I did the other bar in the same way. The now nut bars were wire brushed and primered and painted.

I left them hanging overnight and the next day they were dry.

I chased the threads 1/4-20 with a tap to fix any warpage and remove paint.

Ohhh then the dreaded job. Removing the existing bolts one side at a time and installing the nutbars. Because mine were not that old it came out fairly quickly but went in much faster!!!!
    I laid in the nutbar and lined up one end and inserted a bolt, I used 1/4-20 x 3/4", then lined up the far end and put in another one both finger tight. Using antisieze I put in the remaining bolt and using my cordless drill and a modified nut driver(removed the handle) I spun them on tight.

This is what I was after, just 1 tool and no fumbling around with sockets and wrenches! Just 10 zzzzzrrrs and I can have the front undone.

Here is a look at the bolt head.

And as close as I could get to the inside looking at the nutbar.

I think if one wanted to it would be fairly easy to add more attachment points to, let's say hang something off the top of the inner roof.