If you have been reading along you know that I have had trouble with the LR M/C seals leaking. I have gone through 3 since installing the servo and NRC6096 master cylinder. These were for the Series 3 V8 109, with a plastic reservoir and metric fittings(M12 x 1.00 and M10 x 1.00)
Here is a pic of the first 2;
The reservoir is connected thru these seals and held in place with roll pins. It relies on tightness of the seal to not leak. While mine lasted around 4 months with out leaking, once they started it would take around 30 hours to drain the reservoir. That is just sitting not driving around!
I don't know about you but I don't want to be changing out either seals or master cylinders every 4 months. I want, no NEED something more reliable! So I went looking on forums and found some info on making a Ford m/c work.
What I decided on using is the Dorman M71248 used on among other things 68 Mustangs. It has SAE fitting 1/2-20 for the large and 3/8-24 for the small outlet ports.
The biggest issue with making the change is that the Rover piston is, when installed on the servo, in direct contact with the servo actuating rod, while the Ford has a deep recess in the piston for the actuator rod. To overcome this I was advised by Geoff T. who had done the conversion on a 110, to make a 7/16"dia x 1.00" spacer. Then adjust the length of the spacer until it fit.
My spacer was made out of a stainless steel bolt, I bought one with a 7/16" shaft and removed the head and threads with my angle grinder and a 1/16" cutoff wheel. By hand, on the grinding wheel and using a flat steel plate, I ground the ends as square as I could get and made the length exactly 1in.
The recess diameter in my Ford m/c turned out to be 1/2" so a larger diameter rod could be used.
Once I had the m/c in my grubby wide hands I set about fitting the final overall length by doing some measurements and trial and error. The flanges between the 2 m/c's are different heights making the depth of the actuating rod fit different.
Instead of the difficult task of keeping the face flat as I was shortening the spacer I decided on a different approach. Using a center punch I drilled a recess in the end of the spacer. I felt I could have better control over depth and it would allow the actuating rod to seat in the spacer.
IIRC I drilled 5/64" into the 1" spacer with a 7/64" bit. If I had just done a flat end it would be around .950 overall.
I did have to remove some of the inner wing to fit the reservoir part of the Ford m/c. I used a nibbler and filed it smooth.
I probably went back and forth to the drill press about half a dozen times until I had the flange seated on the servo and no pressure from the spacer on the actuating rod.
Here's the spacer and the servo;
The servo fitting in the Ford m/c;
And fully seated;
The fittings needed to be changed next.
Using my Dremel tool I cut off the old flare and made new ones with my flaring kit.
I compared my flare to a factory one which came with my new fittings. Mine is on the right.
With both fittings done they were hooked up to the m/c and filled the reservoirs with DOT 4 brake fluid. This m/c has 2 reservoirs under the lid.
Next up is bleeding the system.
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