If you are a regular follower you might remember that I had an issue with my fuel injection pump. Ever since I resolved the broken shim and swapped the damaged bits my 109 hasn't been the same.
It was smoking(nothing new there) and under powered(that's new). When pulling off from a cold start it felt like it was in third gear. Once the engine warmed up it worked better, but I still had underpower issues on hills of any type. I had to have high revs in first or second to get up the street to my house, which I found out the hard way......
I finally figured out that I needed to re-time the injector pump. Either the parts I swapped were not working right or the timing wasn't correct. Checking the timing would be the least costly thing to do.
According to the manual to time the 200 you have to put a pin in the drain plug hole for the flywheel when the #1 cylinder is a TDC. The timing mark on the crankshaft pulley now lines up with one of the strengthening webs on the timing cover. Then you pin the injector pump with another pin to keep it from moving. At this point if the injector pin won't go in you have to loosen the pulley on the injector pump and turn it until the pin fits. Tighten it all up and yer done! (IIRC)
My first big problem is that the drain plug hole for the flywheel housing is blocked by the crossmember. No access, zip, zero, can't even see it without a mirror. I fretted and planned for over a month on how I was going to cut my crossmember and bolt up some steel to retain the chassis integrity. I asked on other forums how they did it. Most just lined up the crankshaft timing mark with the web and called it good.
Which leads to my second problem; I can not get a good visual on the timing mark and the web to see how well it is lined up. The radiator and electric fan are in the way, even using a mirror.......Grrrrrr!
I made a pointer with a magnet and put it on the timing mark, but the web is so wide I couldn't be sure how close I was. I mean it ran but was underpowered.
I made a pointer to clamp to the web with a fine point but I can't even get my hand in there to clamp it on........Arrrrgh!......
Not wanting to cut the crossmember I kept thinking.......tick.......tick........tick................clunk.
Knowing I needed to find TDC I decided to pull the #1 fuel injector and stick a bicycle spoke down it and watch to see TDC. Once I put it in I knew it wouldn't be close enough. I needed my dial indicator but I don't have a long enough rod to touch the piston....grrr.....
Then it hit me::THWAK!:: IF my dial calipers would fit down the injector hole I could use the depth finder feature to watch the piston move and find TDC!
It fit!
It took a bunch of tries to figure out exactly how to do it. and getting consistent readings. I found that while I held the fixed and moveable parts of the caliper in the hole I could feel when the piston hit TDC before I visually realized that the gauge had stopped moving.
So I now had TDC dialed in, pun intended ;^)
My next step was to test fit the injector timing pin. And as I thought, it would not fit, the timing was indeed off. According to the book my fix was to move the engine off TDC until the timing pin slipped in, then on the side of the injector pump remove the keeper plate and tighten the bolt and lock the pump. Ya then slacken the 3 bolts on the injector pump gear, turn the engine to TDC. Check the injector pump timing pin fitment(should be easy) and tighten the 3 retaining bolts to the correct torque.
Back on the side of the injector pump loosen the locking bolt and replace the keeper plate and re-tighten. Remove the timing pin.
I re-installed the injector and lines and fired it up. Just a quick trial in my drive shows it pulls away stronger from a stop. I haven't been able to drive it anywhere yet.
How you ask, did I ever turn the crank and hold on to the calipers and watch them all at the same time? If you remember I use my handcrank that I modified to take a socket which fits the bolt on the crankshaft pulley. Which I turned with my foot.
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