The non-return valve
The cheesy plastic Britpart valve didn't last, Had to update it. Read it here; https://poppageno.blogspot.com/2021/05/land-rover-brake-booster-servo-valve.html
The throttle cable is easy at the injector pump end, just bolt on the clevis to the pump actuator. My difficult bit would be at the pedal end, marrying old with the new.
I had hoped to just mount the pedal and then weld something to attach the cable to. When putting the pedal in I realized that I'd need to change the pivot point for the pedal as the old one was held both inside and outside of the footwell. The new one had to be totally inside the footwell.
The cable hole in the top of the footwell had to be located and made to 9/16" to fit the cable seal and the pedal located under it. I then had to fabricate a left side support/pivot for the pedal.
This was made from a piece of angle iron I had laying around. First the pivot hole was made then I had to find where the mounting holes would be so with the help of my neighbor, Bob, the holes locations were marked. Once drilled the bracket was prepped and painted. After drying it is mocked inplace while I figure out the cable connection point. I'd like to go with a clevis but haven't found one in my small town. So I'll probably go with just a piece of flat stock welded to the top of the pedal.
While the pedal bracket was going thru the design/paint process I took the time to install a top cover for the clutch pedal box. I had thought I lost the one I took off (probably have) but I found one in a box o'junk I had. So it was prepped and painted and the holes in the pedal box tapped(10-32) to clean out the zinc remaining.
I've been thinking about my door latches I currently have the series 2 latches but have no keys. When I took then to the locksmith they quoted me $45USD each to re-key alike. I can get new Series 2 locks/latches for $20 USD each, but not keyed alike. Or I can get newer anti-burst keyed alike for $40USD plus $9USD for the striker plates. So $50 to upgrade each door or $20 to stay the same......With the anti-burst a hole has to be drilled in the door skin for the lock mechanism.
And I have to make some blanking plates to cover the old holes at the accelerator mounting point.
I had hoped to just mount the pedal and then weld something to attach the cable to. When putting the pedal in I realized that I'd need to change the pivot point for the pedal as the old one was held both inside and outside of the footwell. The new one had to be totally inside the footwell.
While the pedal bracket was going thru the design/paint process I took the time to install a top cover for the clutch pedal box. I had thought I lost the one I took off (probably have) but I found one in a box o'junk I had. So it was prepped and painted and the holes in the pedal box tapped(10-32) to clean out the zinc remaining.
I've been thinking about my door latches I currently have the series 2 latches but have no keys. When I took then to the locksmith they quoted me $45USD each to re-key alike. I can get new Series 2 locks/latches for $20 USD each, but not keyed alike. Or I can get newer anti-burst keyed alike for $40USD plus $9USD for the striker plates. So $50 to upgrade each door or $20 to stay the same......With the anti-burst a hole has to be drilled in the door skin for the lock mechanism.
And I have to make some blanking plates to cover the old holes at the accelerator mounting point.
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