Land Rover wing and accelerator cable

     Ok, so I set about making a combination seal and clamp for the top of the footwell at the throttle cable. I measured and cut a piece of galvanized sheet metal I had lying about. I drilled a 9/16" hole at one end and ground out the end so I had a U shape hole. Then using my vise I bent the metal into a Z shape. Next up was to drill holes to hold it to the bulkhead. I couldn't reach around and hold it in place and mark it at the same time. I waited a few minutes and no one came by so I went to my neighbors house and Shelly came over and held it inplace whist I marked the hole locations.
     Next I drilled the holes to 9/32" as I would be using 1/4" cap screws. Then there was the test fit. Wow, something fit the first time for once! So I then sprayed it with truck bed liner to seal the edges and let it dry overnight.

     Today, I put on the throttle clamp. It was difficult getting the bolts on by ones self but I conquered the problem. Then I set about making a cover plate for the old acclerator linkage. Once again measuring and cutting the sheet metal. This time I could use the old bracketry for the correct hole position. If only I'd used the correct bracket.....second times the charm. Once it was test fit I sprayed it with High-temp paint as it is too close to the exhaust down pipe. Once dry I put it on, Man, I wish I had smaller hands. I had to resort to vise grips to hold the cap screw on the inside while I turned the nut on the engine side. But hey, it's on!
     The heat shield was put on next, the new exhaust is larger and it wouldn't snap together so I wired it on. Hopefully it helps. I know the exhaust is just going to cook that corner of the footwell though...............
     Here are a couple of pics of the finished accelerator pedal cable attachment. This did not last but around 5 months, then the small all thread broke below the clevis. See my later post on accelerator fix.

     By now I'm thinking that I have the left side of the engine bay all sorted out. So it was time to fit the wing. Dragging it from it's resting place on my back porch I set about getting the tools ready and putting antisieze on the bolts. It went on easy enough after all my fitting earlier this year. The front was fitted to the radiator support panel and the rear hung from the bulkhead bolts. Then it was a matter of tightening everything up in the hot sun. Since I had made the removable bit in the wingtop it made it really easy to get to the top bolt.

     I still need to put in the mudguard and steering box splash guard to finish off that one side.

     At this point I decided to mount the reservoir for the power steering box. Using a piece of stainless "Band-it" strapping I fashioned a clamp and attached the res to the wing using 1/4-20 riv-nuts. Now I can get some hose and hook that up.

     Monday I took some old windscreen wiper arms down and had them media blasted. Over the last couple of days I put many coats of primer and paint on them. Then installed them on the 109. Now to get new rubber for them.....

Land Rover 109, brake servo valve, accelerator pedal

     Well, the throttle cable, non-return valve and the switches came in so I went to work on putting them in. It was slow going as I had injured my left index finger whilst working on the switch labels.
     The non-return valve

is the correct one for the small hole in the older servos. The seal went in

then the valve and last the hose was hooked up.

UPDATE, 6 Oct 2021

The cheesy plastic Britpart valve didn't last, Had to update it. Read it here;   https://poppageno.blogspot.com/2021/05/land-rover-brake-booster-servo-valve.html  

The throttle cable is easy at the injector pump end, just bolt on the clevis to the pump actuator. My difficult bit would be at the pedal end, marrying old with the new.
    I had hoped to just mount the pedal and then weld something to attach the cable to. When putting the pedal in I realized that I'd need to change the pivot point for the pedal as the old one was held both inside and outside of the footwell. The new one had to be totally inside the footwell.

    The cable hole in the top of the footwell had to be located and made to 9/16" to fit the cable seal and the pedal located under it. I then had to fabricate a left side support/pivot for the pedal.

This was made from a piece of angle iron I had laying around. First the pivot hole was made then I had to find where the mounting holes would be so with the help of my neighbor, Bob, the holes locations were marked. Once drilled the bracket was prepped and painted. After drying it is mocked inplace while I figure out the cable connection point. I'd like to go with a clevis but haven't found one in my small town. So I'll probably go with just a piece of flat stock welded to the top of the pedal.
    While the pedal bracket was going thru the design/paint process I took the time to install a top cover for the clutch pedal box. I had thought I lost the one I took off (probably have) but I found one in a box o'junk I had. So it was prepped and painted and the holes in the pedal box tapped(10-32) to clean out the zinc remaining.

     I've been thinking about my door latches I currently have the series 2 latches but have no keys. When I took then to the locksmith they quoted me $45USD each to re-key alike. I can get new Series 2 locks/latches for $20 USD each, but not keyed alike. Or I can get newer anti-burst keyed alike for $40USD plus $9USD for the striker plates. So $50 to upgrade each door or $20 to stay the same......With the anti-burst a hole has to be drilled in the door skin for the lock mechanism.
    And I have to make some blanking plates to cover the old holes at the accelerator mounting point.
   

Land Rover switch labels

     I wanted to have some labels on my switches, especially the non-standard ones in the new dash section. I thought briefly about Dymo labels but they lose stickyness and look tacky. After a websearch I couldn't find any plastic or metal ones. So I decided to make some.
     My first try was to borrow some copper(thanks Craig!) and using my letter stamp making a prototype. It proved to be too thin a material and I worried about corrosion making it green and crusty later on.

So I went to the local hardware store and bought a piece of .035 brass sheet for around $17USD. Then using an old plastic label I had as a template I laid out some switches and drilled holes then stamped some names on them. It turned out that these were too long for 2 of the switches so I had to redo those. I also screwed up the stamping on a couple in my learing phase and drilled one hole too large for the intended switch..aahhhh......learning curve.

     As I was making the labels for the switches I thought I should label my warning lights too. My first thought was to make individual labels using just 2 letter designations. After making the ones for the switches it became apparent to me that a strip label across the front would be easier! So thats's what I did.

     You can see it is temporarlly fit, I am waiting for a temp guage and another switch. I have fitted a Stewart-Warner marine voltmeter from  my FLAPS.
     I've ordered a non-return valve for the servo and accelerator cable and a couple of switches from Craddocks. It took them a week to confirm and charge me the shipping from the UK. It should ship on Tues 4-16-2013.

Land Rover busy.!.!.!

I don't know about you but I've been busy(well most days).

Puttering around on the 109 most of the time, worrying about how I'm gonna figure out the wiring. I had put out feelers for help but no-one was responding. So I asked again and a fellow fourwheeler in the area came thru. Nate came over on a Friday afternoon and we hashed out some of my confusion. In the process I found that the Series 3 diesel wiring diagram was the closest to what I was trying to accomplish. The best example I found was on the Series 2 Club forum in the UK, http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,58789.0.html
It is a PDF format. I think it was the colour coding that helped the me.
So over the next couple of days I went at routing and hooking up the brown wires that all have unfused power from the battery to the starter, alternator, fusebox. The fusebox needs mentioning I found on Amazon a 10pole LED indicating fusebox w/cover using ATC blade fuses from Ties4less; http://www.amazon.com/10pole-Indicating-Fuse-Block-cover/dp/B004S2YCE6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1365635582&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=fuse+box+10pole

One of the cool things about this one is the led lights up for a bit when the fuse blows!
So eventually I got the brown wires figured out then I had to figure out a control wire from the key to the starter solenoid. Once this was done I figured I'd see if I did it correctly and went to see if the motor would turn over. This link takes you to the video;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzPctQG7lxw

After that worked I thought I'd be smart and hook up the glow plugs and see if it would start!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3iKMJcOJUU

I almost had it and then;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwJTd3WNLHA

After that it was much easier to find out where the other wires were to go so I have been working on that. I'm almost finished with the wiring. I have to put in another switch and temperature and voltmeter guages. There are switches for the rear spot light, front off road lites(which I don't have yet), wipers. There are LED's for the turn signals(green), the rear spot(orange) front offroad lites(orange) and I have 2 red LED's waiting for something. I still need to decide if I'm going to use the low fuel level warning light--I may convert it to LED.....

I saw a deal on some seat covers from The Kexby Limited Company; www.kexbylimited.com  for water resistant canvas seat covers on the D-90 forum. So I sprung for a set of brown ones.

When I got the 109 it had the old turn signal switch in the dash and it was broken. I found another like it with a good housing and between the 2 I was able to make 1 working one. So I set about to wire it into the system. Once it was wired in I decided that it would be awkward to use so I took it out and put on a Tex-Magna instead. This mounts on the column and will be easier to use, I just will have to remember to turn it off as it has no drum on the column to rotate on.

So I have ordered an accelerator cable and a non-return valve for the servo(hopefully the correct size). Once those are on and the temp, volt guages there will need to be a reckoning with the air cleaner and the power steering reserviour then it will be driveable. Perhaps by the end of April but by the end of May for sure! With any luck it will get out of the driveway!!!!!!!  And stop! ;^)