109 engine removal

Well let's see; I think I have most of the paint removed from all the various bits. I am still working on the top half of the rear door. I want the door I'm thinking because of the visibility factor, as it has a larger window than the liftgate. While removing the paint I found my rear door has been re-skinned on the lower portion with steel of some type. I'm just going to leave it.
Brian came over last week and we removed the 2.25 petrol motor. That came out easy since nothing was attached or in the way.

Both the motor mounts were broken the rubber had separated from the steel disc.

Because my driveway is sloped and rock and dirt we had to put down some bits of plywood that I had left over. It worked out OK but was quite the struggle moving the loaded hoist around. Eventually we resorted to a lever to push the front wheels into position and/or lift them up back onto the wood. It was about 95F that day so it was sweaty work!
I think all that pushing affected my foot so I had to take off the next couple of days 'cause I couldn't walk. I broke my ankle in 1975 in a motorcycle accident and in the last 10 years have had 2 surgeries on it for bone spur and arthritis removal, the last being in 09.
After that cleared up I removed the front prop shaft and the handbrake linkage.
After consulting the internet and some measurments I decided to remove the battery tray. I cut it off with my angle grinder and a thin cut-off blade. I left about an inch of tab sticking up and drilled them for a 1/4" bolt incase I can put the battery back in there.

I have ordered engine mounts from Rovah Farm; Rovahfarm.com ,and when they come in it will be time to test fit the 2.5DT. I will need to make sure the motor will use the existing mounting brackets, test fit the radiator and make modifications to the radiator support panel and ensure that it all clears the steering relay.
Then pull the motor, radiator, radiator support panel, steering relay, transmission. Remove the springs and spring bushings. Flip the chassis over and fix any defects, finish the welding on the rear cross member.
The rear crossmember is at the welders now. I am having sleeves put in the bolt holes for the mounting of the trailer hitch plate. I just want to make it stronger and not be crushing the xmember when bolted in.
After that it is off to the galvanizer!!!
This week I ordered new door tops and parabolic springs from Rocky Mountain; http://parabolicsprings.com/
I talked with Jeremy and we decided on the 2 leaf fronts and the 3 leaf rears. I also purchased the recommended Procomp shocks. I still have to get bushings as RM was out of a complete set.

Well I think that's it for now,,,back to the salt mine!