200TDI seal tool

As part of the rebuild/replace of my 200TDI block I had to renew the seals in the timing chest. There are 4 of them, 2 different sizes. Removal was straight forward and 3 of them come out easy. One, crankshaft rear chest, was very stubborn. I wound up needing to use a chisel and damaged the chest.

Before;

After removal;

I cleaned up the buggering with a Dremel tool and installed the new seal. I did not have the Factory tool 18G 1456 for the crank seal or 18G 1482 for the cam shaft tool. I used a large drift to put in the cam seal and had to find something better for the crank seal. Looking around I found that a Land Rover hub cap #219098 is almost a perfect fit. A couple of quick turns on the grinding wheel and it fit. This worked well but wasn't perfect as it was too small in height. I needed a better tool.

    Scrounging around I found an old LR steering relay flange to be almost the right size. I clamped my modified hubcap to it and marked out a circle.

Back to the grinding wheel and I worked the circle down evenly until it fit the hole in the timing chest. Gathering a piece of square tubing I made long enough to go over the crankshaft I welded it to the circle. Next cleaned and painted.

The seal gets put on when the timing chest is already on the block, using the block as the "face". I also made the same style tool(18G 1482) for the smaller cam shaft seals. But I have no picture.

At this time I also espied a previous owners buggering of the back of the timing chest.

I suspect that this might have been a source of the constant leak I could never stop. I used the Dremel tool to sand off the lip. Should be good to go!

I finally got to put on the timing chest and install the seals. The one for the camshaft was uneventful but needed more power behind the hammer blows than I expected.

The crankshaft seal also took more energy to put in and with the restricted area to swing the hammer in the frame I resorted to a 2 pound hammer. I can mitigate this by shortening up the length of the shaft of the tool and putting on an end cap.

Here is a pic of the over all install of the crankshaft seal followed by a close up of the tool with the seal fully installed;

Lastly the only hiccup if you will was the need to cut a notch in the ID of the tool so it would pass over the key in the crankshaft. I was lucky enough that the square tubing I used was large enough that I could cut out where the corner was. The tool worked great!
   You can see the notch in the pic below.