So I emailed the pic to Howard at Beaumont Landrovers, the vendor and to my neighbor who had been following my efforts. Then I went to bed.
Howard replied not to worry. My neighbor and I were freaking out he is a car guy and sent the pic to some engine re-builders he knows. They expressed concern. I spent a few hours in the morning doing online research into scratches and crosshatching on cylinder walls, of which mine show little of.
When the day warmed up enough to venture outside I went out and my neighbor came up. Here is where I got lucky! I did not tighten the head bolts the day before so it was easy to take off the head and look at the cylinder in the light of day, it also saved using a head gasket!
After extensive looking and checking it turns out it was just a grease smear down the side of the cylinder as we could not find the mark in the morning. WHEW!
So I put the head back in place using my 3 modified head bolts to line it up.
I set the bolts in finger tight and then set all of them to 20 ft-lb of torque as an equal start point.
Up next was the rigorous torquing procedure of going thru the sequence twice turning the bolts 60°'s each time. Finally it too was done.
By then it was too hot to work outside hitting close to 100F so I cleaned up and covered things over and hid in the dark of my house.
But the next morning I was up and active early and got the valves adjusted. .008 following the rule of 9.
I had to modify my new adjusting tool, by taking it apart and grinding down the screwdriver bit, as I found the 200 adjusters slot is thinner than the 2.25 adjusters I had built my tool too. Then re-welding it up.
Another thing I needed to look at was a possible cause of overheating. Since I used the top off a 2.25 engine that used a skirted thermostat I had to make sure it was working properly with a non-skirted thermostat required for this engine. That story is in this post; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/2018/08/land-rover-200tdi-to-series-radiator.html
Below is a pic of both styles.
Following that was the fretting and fitting of the pulley's and pumps and belts.
I say fretting because of the possibility of the alternator or power steering belts stretching and causing the alternator fan to hit the steering column.
Eventually I realized that I had to put my battery on to see if I had room to move the alternator up to where the A/C sits on the Disco engine. While bolting the battery holder on I realized that I could make it simpler if I just welded the nuts on. So I did that and then had to file out the holes a little to get the bolts to line up. But well worth the effort!
In the following pics you can see the red cardboard template I made for a possible re-locating plate for the alternator.
I settled on staying with what I have got for now. Once the battery was on I could start the engine and see if it would even run. First I had to install the oil cooler and the radiator and radiator support panel. No hiccups there.
Starting the engine. That's when I ran into some issues. One was my starter has been iffy for as long as I have had the 200, in that it would just cutout while engaged. It just wouldn't crank long enough to get fuel up to the injector pump(the Bosch is self priming) But it ran down the battery anyway. I charged it up overnight. A full charged helped but it was still not staying engaged, much to my neighbors disappointment. So I changed out for my spare starter.
It cranked very well thank you, but the darn thing wasn't starting. So I started cracking joints and bleeding lines but nothing was coming out? Eventually tracked it back to the fuel lift pump not working. So the next morning I changed that out. Then I manually bleed the system with my brake vacuum bleeder. That worked GREAT! Sucked all the air out up to the injector pump and brought fuel up.
Then is cranked over and started right up! I didn't have the intake/exhaust on because I needed to see if the oil was coming thru the exhaust. I let it run for about 2 min and then shut it down as there was no wetness on the exhaust port only some soot.
After escaping the daily heat I put on the turbo and exhaust the next day using new gaskets.
The next morning the engine ran and the turbo showed no leaks! So I spent the rest of the day putting on the left wing. It's quite hard to do by oneself, especially when the raised bumper interferes with the front panel.
On the right wing I decided to make one of those bolt strip thingies to make it quicker/easier. That took a while.
Eventually the body was all on and the engine is in.
So far I have taken 3 test drives. There are no major leaks, only a minor weeping from a section of the valve cover gasket and dum de dum dum........out the flywheel drain hole.......nothing major just a weeping.
Power level seems on par with the previous motor and it seems a tad bit quieter, but still need earplugs for longer trips. Smoke at idle is non-existent and only a hazy blue at speed, I've had it up to 58mph. The water temp seems to be staying around 200°F. My longest drive has been 15 miles so far.
It is not pissing out oil from the exhaust so I call that a WIN!
Very interesting Gene, congratulations on the work you've done! Are you ready to work on getting the OM617 into my 109?
ReplyDeleteCraig