109 Land Rover, Changing the engine yet again...........Part 3

Part 2 left off with what I suspected was a crack or scratch in my #2 cylinder wall discovered when I uploaded my pics that night.

So I emailed the pic to Howard at Beaumont Landrovers, the vendor and to my neighbor who had been following my efforts. Then I went to bed.
    Howard replied not to worry. My neighbor and I were freaking out he is a car guy and sent the pic to some engine re-builders he knows. They expressed concern. I spent a few hours in the morning doing online research into scratches and crosshatching on cylinder walls, of which mine show little of.
    When the day warmed up enough to venture outside I went out and my neighbor came up. Here is where I got lucky! I did not tighten the head bolts the day before so it was easy to take off the head and look at the cylinder in the light of day, it also saved using a head gasket!

     After extensive looking and checking it turns out it was just a grease smear down the side of the cylinder as we could not find the mark in the morning. WHEW!

    So I put the head back in place using my 3 modified head bolts to line it up.

I set the bolts in finger tight and then set all of them to 20 ft-lb of torque as an equal start point.

Up next was the rigorous torquing procedure of going thru the sequence twice turning the bolts 60°'s each time. Finally it too was done.

By then it was too hot to work outside hitting close to 100F so I cleaned up and covered things over and hid in the dark of my house.

But the next morning I was up and active early and got the valves adjusted. .008 following the rule of 9.
I had to modify my new adjusting tool, by taking it apart and grinding down the screwdriver bit, as I found the 200 adjusters slot is thinner than the 2.25 adjusters I had built my tool too. Then re-welding it up.

   Another thing I needed to look at was a possible cause of overheating. Since I used the top off a 2.25 engine that used a skirted thermostat I had to make sure it was working properly with a non-skirted thermostat required for this engine. That story is in this post; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/2018/08/land-rover-200tdi-to-series-radiator.html
Below is a pic of both styles.

Following that was the fretting and fitting of the pulley's and pumps and belts.

I say fretting because of the possibility of the alternator or power steering belts stretching and causing the alternator fan to hit the steering column.

 

Eventually I realized that I had to put my battery on to see if I had room to move the alternator up to where the A/C sits on the Disco engine. While bolting the battery holder on I realized that I could make it simpler if I just welded the nuts on. So I did that and then had to file out the holes a little to get the bolts to line up. But well worth the effort!

In the following pics you can see the red cardboard template I made for a possible re-locating plate for the alternator.

I settled on staying with what I have got for now. Once the battery was on I could start the engine and see if it would even run. First I had to install the oil cooler and the radiator and radiator support panel. No hiccups there.

    Starting the engine. That's when I ran into some issues. One was my starter has been iffy for as long as I have had the 200, in that it would just cutout while engaged. It just wouldn't crank long enough to get fuel up to the injector pump(the Bosch is self priming) But it ran down the battery anyway. I charged it up overnight. A full charged helped but it was still not staying engaged, much to my neighbors disappointment. So I changed out for my spare starter.
     It cranked very well thank you, but the darn thing wasn't starting. So I started cracking joints and bleeding lines but nothing was coming out? Eventually tracked it back to the fuel lift pump not working. So the next morning I changed that out. Then I manually bleed the system with my brake vacuum bleeder. That worked GREAT! Sucked all the air out up to the injector pump and brought fuel up.
   Then is cranked over and started right up! I didn't have the intake/exhaust on because I needed to see if the oil was coming thru the exhaust. I let it run for about 2 min and then shut it down as there was no wetness on the exhaust port only some soot.
  After escaping the daily heat I put on the turbo and exhaust the next day using new gaskets.

    The next morning the engine ran and the turbo showed no leaks! So I spent the rest of the day putting on the left wing. It's quite hard to do by oneself, especially when the raised bumper interferes with the front panel.

On the right wing I decided to make one of those bolt strip thingies to make it quicker/easier. That took a while.

Eventually the body was all on and the engine is in.

So far I have taken 3 test drives. There are no major leaks, only a minor weeping from a section of the valve cover gasket and dum de dum dum........out the flywheel drain hole.......nothing major just a weeping.
   Power level seems on par with the previous motor and it seems a tad bit quieter, but still need earplugs for longer trips. Smoke at idle is non-existent and only a hazy blue at speed, I've had it up to 58mph. The water temp seems to be staying around 200°F. My longest drive has been 15 miles so far.
 It is not pissing out oil from the exhaust so I call that a WIN!

109 Land Rover changing the engine yet again.............Part 2

Now the old engine is out and I have to remove the clutch/flywheel/flywheel housing. Pretty straightforward and it all came apart easy enough. I used an alignment tools tapered end for holding the flywheel while loosening the bolts.

You can see in the pictures that I have a gravel drive and it is on a slope. I have to put down plywood to get the engine hoist to roll. I was able to remove the engine from the frame by myself, although I eventually had to put in some wooden cleats to keep it from rolling back into the bumper.

Once the flywheel was off I could see some damage done at the timing slot. I can only wonder what kind of forces were used to do that!

Now if you are not familiar with the 200TDI it is a direct injected engine and fuel delivery timing is as critical as spark timing on a petrol engine. Accurate timing is accomplished by inserting a pin thru the bottom of the flywheel housing and locking the flywheel in place via the slot pictured above. Once this is done the crankshaft is now immobilized in the correct position. Next the camshaft is aligned to marks on the case and the injector pump is locked into position via a similar pin. Set on the belt and you have an uncle named Bob.
    With the 200 not being native to the 1960 109 the flywheel drain/timing hole is blocked by the crossmember. This results in setting the timing by measuring the TDC of  #1 piston and can lead to small error. I wanted to avoid this, and had found it frustrating with the engine I just removed to not "know" how off I might be and how much of the smoke/oil leakage might be from this mistiming.
    I decided to modify my crossmember to allow access top the drain/timing hole. I could only do this with any accuracy with the engine removed so now was the time if I was going to do it.  Finally after much thinking I decided to just remove part of the front of the crossmember and weld in the pieces. It came out OK, I should have made the cut 1/4"-3/8" deeper. It was a process of cleaning, marking and cutting and welding. I coated it with the zinc spray and then an industrial gray paint. I can easily get my fat hand in there and see up into the hole.

Have to admit I was disappointed to find the galvanizing dip I had done to the frame did not penetrate much inside. You can see in the second pic how much rust came out of the crossmember.

    That done I waited the new block and made the screens for my front windows and did the seals on the timing chest front cover which I covered in an earlier post.  http://poppageno.blogspot.com/2018/08/200tdi-seal-tool.html

   Then came the big day, the long block arrived July 19 2018.

At this point I want to go over my reasoning for getting a long block or what's known in the UK as a 3/4 engine. Partly due to the difficulty finding a shop to do my old engine. I found someone who would machine it but because they never worked on them would not put it back together. That brings me to me, I'm not comfortable in doing all the shimming and measuring with cams and thrust bearings that I want to do one. So I bought a long block. What came with it you might ask? I thought at time of purchase it was just going to be the block, crank, pistons, cam, rollers, lifters, freeze plugs. What came included oil pump, ladder frame and oil pan. I had only to drop in my oil pump drive shaft and the bottom end was done!
Some pics of the long block;

I started with the back and the flywheel housing so I could get it off the ground and into my "engine stand".

I also put on the vacuum pump to cover the hole after dropping in the oil pump drive shaft along with the side covers while access was easy.

On the other side I put in the dipstick to fill that hole.

The flywheel housing and clutch went on OK.

Then it was time to put it on the engine stand;

 I tried to put it in with the engine mounting brackets on but because of the angles I had to take them off. I did it by myself and had to reposition the chain twice. I sat it on a pallet on the frame for the resets.

   It only took me  around 70 minutes to get it in. I used alignment bolts in the flywheel housing to line up the bellhousing and using the old crankshaft timing gear on the crankshaft I was able to rotate the flywheel for the splines to line up.

It wasn't hanging straight so at one point I had to lever it straight.

Then it was a matter of putting on the engine mounts.

And timing chest. It was a bit fiddlely as I had left the injector pump on. Then I could install the crank and cam seals with the new tool I made.

With the seals in I could put on the crankshaft timing gear and the camshaft pulley and the injector pump timing pulley. Line up all the timing marks. You'll remember the crankshaft is locked in by the flywheel timing pin. I looked under thru the hole to see if my crankshaft was lined up.

   Since the slot wasn't visible I knew I was 180° out and rotated the crankshaft so I could see this;

That is when I found out that I had not cut my crossmember deep enough to fit the locking pin.

I ground down the OD of the locking pin until it fit. It took about 5 trips under the 109 for test fitting until I got it.

The injector pump has it's own timing lock on the side which I set when I took things apart so it was just a matter of putting the pulley on correctly. The camshaft is indexed for it's pulley and then spun around to the timing mark. The idle pulley is put on. Before I put on the timing belt I snapped some pics of the cylinders. Then the belt. After the belt is on the tensioning pulley is put on and double tensioned.

With everything all lined up and double tensioned;

I did notice that there were 3 bolts missing from the oil pan during one of my many excursions under the engine.

 
With the timing belt all done I put on a new head gasket(2 holer according to my measurements) and set the head on with the push rods and rocker arms ready. I set in the head bolts and because it was evening and I was tired n hungry, Quickly I put on the crankshaft damper then I quit for the night.

    After dinner I downloaded my pics on my computer and that's when I noticed 2 things; 1 no real new crosshatching and this;

I feared it was a scratch or a crack.

To be continued........on Part 3.