Wednesday, May 20, 2015

ARB Locker air compressor installed, Land Rover 109

Decided to go with an ARB compressor so I purchased one from 4Wheel Parts ( www.4wheelparts.com). Picked up the model CKMA12, high output on-board air kit.

   The biggest issue was trying to figure out where to put it. I started on making a side access behind the drivers door to put both the ARB and the battery. Once I realized I could put the battery under the bonnet I decided to put it in the same place as Brett put his; next to the heater blower on the RH footwell, under the wing. It fits great there!




There is a backing plate under the footwell.



Then I had to figure out a switch mounting plate that would accompany both my compressor and locker switches and the newly installed dual fuel selector valve. I like the idea, but, I'm not enamored of the hole thing as much as I thought I would be but that's changeable and the plate is large enough to hold more stuff if required.



Next I spent a day running wires and checking the wiring diagram and hooking up the switches. Once the battery was installed I could check for function and it appears to be working as intended even the dual fuel gauge!




I ran the blue air line and zip tied everything down.



I'm going to have to test it out by raising one wheel and doing the rotational movement thing then locking it and seeing if it moves......IF I did everything right it should work OK!

109 battery relocated

OK, I admit I didn't move it far. Once I put the wing on I figured that I might be able to put the battery under the bonnet. To do this I made some 7" stilts out of 1/8" angle iron and using my old legs as templates I drilled the appropriate holes and made the correct cutouts to fit around the oil cooler lines.




You can see the battery fits in the same spot only higher. I could only do this because when I was going to galvanize the frame I thought ahead and cut off the battery mount and pre-drilled holes in the mounting tabs on both the chassis and the tray before they were galvanized. The stilts are coated in truck bed liner.



There is plenty(I hope) of clearance for the timing cover if the motor doesn't jump around too much.



Even though it only moved a relatively small amount I needed to make new ground strap to the motor and a new power line to the winch by about 8-12"


Friday, May 15, 2015

dual tank selector installed, Land Rover

I ordered a dual tank selector from Vehicle Safety Supply I bought a Pollack valve kit #42-300V. It is a 12 volt setup that only has power applied when you move the valve, once the valve stops no need to keep it energized.






There didn't seem to be a great place to mount it so I decided to put it on top of the crossmember behind the transfercase. To do this I needed to make a bracket and I used this to take advantage of the preexisting holes in the crossmember. The bracket gives me access to the bolts under the valve.




In the next pic you are looking up from the ground behind the transmission brake.


And a look at it from above the rear prop shaft


The tank hoses and engine hose are all 3/8" while the return hoses are 5/16". I put the tank hoses on the back of the valve and the engine hoses on the front.



Using hose clamps and zip ties I tried to keep everything out of harms way and to keep them from rubbing during operations.



Here's the front;



Next up was doing the wiring and keeping it out of the way.



I had to make an auxiliary switch panel to hold the tank and the air compressor and locker switch. I made it large so I could add other things as they come along. I drilled out for the parcel tray threaded nuts and then tapped the parcel tray for the sheet metal screws. I painted it the same as my dash panel.



It took awhile to run the hoses and the wires. The selector not only switches the tanks but also switches the fuel senders to the gauge. I still haven't put in the fuel filters between the tank and valve so as to not void the valve warranty, or put fuel in to check the gauge operation.

Update;

    I got the battery installed and was able to run the electrical tests. so the switch to the gauge does work but I don't hear the tank selector so will have to check that and put in the fuel filters.