Land Rover fiddling around, dual tank, locking diff, throttle cable

Let's see....................

I bought an extended range aluminum tank which was part of a group buy on the Guns and Rovers website. I am thinking about where to put it. It was designed to replace the RH underseat tank and extend under the front floor.

My current thinking is that with some modification I can put it under the LH seat and more than double my fuel capacity. This will mean losing my underseat tool box something I don't want to do as I was thinking I might HAVE to put the battery there if I can not make it fit the engine bay. If the fuel tank goes there where does the battery then go?

Just wanted to share with you the "flash" that was inside the tank.

Pretty yucky!

I have been piddling around doing small things since I had to place an order with Craddocks. My power steering bracket will not fit/work, neither will my alternator as the mounting ears are in a different configuration. So I ordered those and new fan and alternator belts.

   This motor is different in that the main fan belt drives from the crank  to the waterpump then around the power steering pump and back to the crank. The power steering pump has a double pulley and from it a belt goes to the alternator. So for tensioning you first do the fan belt then adjust the alternator tension.

   So back to piddling around, I removed the power steering fluid reservoir as it will be relocated, removed the tape from some of the coolant pipes and wire brushed them with the Dremel tool and then put on hoses, or in some cases I recovered them with blue painters tape instead of duct tape. The blue tape doesn't leave such a sticky residue....YUCK!

You can see I put on the hose from the waterpump to the thermostat housing, on the left, and yes I did put on a lower hose clamp, thank you!

I have run the hoses from the head and the thermostat to the heater and installed the heater control valve. In the pics the hose from the thermostat is missing because I left it off pending the intake/exhaust install.

The cable for the heater control was shortened about 8" to make for a cleaner installation.

I have 2 intake/exhaust/turbo set ups for the 2.5DT 19J motor, these were taken to Daren at ARC-Tec along with a manifold gasket(for a template), minus the turbos. He is going to make me a intake/exhaust manifold that will fit the 200TDI head. The issue being on the 19J head the intake and exhaust ports are offset up and down, the exhaust being lower as in the 2.25 motors. 

While the 200-300 heads have all the ports in a straight line. What this configuration does is change the stud position, mostly for the exhaust but all new mounting holes have to be added to both intake and exhaust manifolds. Easy enough for him with the aluminum intake but not so easy with the cast iron exhaust, he will remove the flange bits off the extra manifold and weld them onto the "good" one. The 200-300 Defender manifolds are difficult to find and stupidly expensive, this should cost in the neighborhood of a third their cost.

No pics at this point.

On the other hand I purchased an Ashcroft air locker for the rear. Biting the bullet, partly due to favorable exchange rate I had them set up a complete diff, with 4.75 HD ring and pegged against deflection. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/

Just need to figure out where to mount the compressor and make a switch mount.

Looking at the accelerator cable, while doing the heater hose I figured I could make it better. If you look in the first pic you can see that the cable has a deep bend in it where the bracket is. This is because it was originally a RHD and the cable came from a different direction, it also lines up the throttle bracket on the pump with the direction the cable used to come from.

So using my biggest cresent wrench, I removed the cable and un-twisted the bracket some.

Then reinstalled the cable and adjusted the tension.

You can see it is not quite as deep a bend, I wanted to move the whole bracket but it is one piece with the injector pump mount to the block.

A good part of my day today was spent cleaning up my 2.5 DT head and prepping it for storage or shipping.

I took a wire wheel to it and removed the old gasket and buildup and checked for cracks, none were visible.

It was then liberally coated with more WD40 and wrapped with Saran Wrap. As you can see I left the valves and springs and most of the manifold studs in place. Next a wooden box was built, and then stored out of the weather.

TTFN!

200TDI 109 in the engine bay! Yay!

So "They" say it is going to rain on Thursday, well we can only hope, but it spurred me to getting the 200 into the 109. The other day I put on the motor mounts but only loosely, today I researched the torque for the bolts(60ftlb) and tightened them up.
     Then I did some cleaning on the motor[ aren't cordless drills great!], changed out a bad bolt on the waterpump and started shifting the 2 motors around to get the old motor out of the way. While I was doing this my neighbor Bob came over and asked if I needed any help.........he meant just moving the motor. So I told him what I was doing and that I was almost ready to put the 200 in the frame. He watched me slide the 2 motors across the plywood into position. Then he said "Well, you know I'm leaving in a few minutes." So I told him I'll just get another neighbor and he pointed out they weren't home either. To which I replied "well I have 2 days."
     Bob's a nice guy so he said he would help and leave a little late.

So I dragged the hoist in front of the 109 with the motor between the extended legs and hooked it up, Bob coaching me into position all the time. Then I began to lift it, of course the motor swung back as it lifted and now was fouled by the bumper.......We moved the 80# wheel chock at the rear and rolled the Rover back about 4". Then I went back to pumping the hoist up....and up......and up.......and up........and up......enough to have the oil pan clear the control cover for the 8274 Warn on the bumper.

   Once high enough I started to push the hoist down the hill on the plywood, a couple of things were happening; the ply was compressing due to the weight and the hoist was tippy if you pushed on the upper part of it.  I managed to get the engine past the winch and started it down so it would be easier to move. From there on it was a matter of move it back, lower..repeat...repeat until the LHD side was on the motormount rubber already in the frame.
    Unfortunately the back of the flywheel housing had dropped below and in front of the crossmember. So I dragged out my floor jack after trying vainly to move it by brute strength. As I jacked it up it popped over the crossmember and I went to the RHD side and pushed and pulled and lowered the engine so the RHD was sitting on the motor mount and both were holding the weight of the motor.

IT WAS IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

View from the front.

I think because the injector pump is higher on the Disco engine I may have to revamp my battery tray or move it under the seat or the tub.

I hooked up a few misc things like fuel lines and stop soleniod wire then cleaned up. Felt good a productive day!

200TDI

     With the help of my neighbors I moved the 200 next to the DT and began the process of cleaning and swapping parts. I put on the dip stick tube and the turbo oil line then the waterpump. I have to get 1 new bolt for the waterpump. I needed to get 2 new bolts for the motor mounts of which I put on the LH side loosely. To put the pump on I made a new paper gasket with the hammer, greased it up on both sides and put it on.

     The real fun came with trying to figure out if I could use the 200 flywheel housing to bolt to the Series bellhousing. I was told that I would need the FWH from the DT to make it work.
   Why?, I asked myself, and then taking a bellhousing I put it up to the FWhousing for a look see. What I found is that one of the studs on the 200 fly doesn't line up with a hole in the Series bell. Just look at the pics you can see there is a hole in the fly just below the offending stud.

My solution was to drill out the lower hole and tap it for the stud. First I measured the depth of the studded hole with a drill bit and then drilled to a matching depth. I used a 7/32 for a pilot hole and then finished with a   11/32 and using a 10 x 1.5 tap I finished off the change.

   There were 2 locating pins on the fly to remove, using small visegrips I tried unscrewing them and realized they were pressed in and just worked them out.

Next up was a trial fit of the bellhousing.

Perfect! Even if I do say so myself.....

Still leaves unanswered what to do about the bottom bolt/stud issue. On the TDI, 3 allen bolts are used in the bottom which go thru the bell and fly and into the ladder frame, while the Series just used studs into the flyhousing. These allen holes do not line up with the bell stud holes.
   I could drill and tap the holes for the studs like I did for the other stud adjustment and lose the fly to ladder connection or I could drill the bell for the allen holes, or I could not use them at all which is what I have heard others do. No lower bolt/studs, just the 3 on the bottom would be missing. I dunno on one hand I'd like to have the thru bolt connection to the ladder but lots of work as the bell I will use is bolted to the gearbox, not the spare in the photo. On the other hand the studs worked just fine in all the Series.......