Land Rover motor removal

Well, over the last week I removed everything on the injector pump side of the motor connecting it to the vehicle.

With the exception of the coolant system it was ready to pull.

I drained what I could fo the antifreeze and disconnected the hoses. It still looked like I needed to remove the radiator and support panel and then the oil cooler.
Brett and Amanda came over yesterday and helped me take those off. I thought that was all I was going to do as I was sore from a mountainbike fall and playing some frisbee. But I couldn't rest and I laid out my plywood and screwed it together to make a floor to roll the engine hoist on. Then my neighbor Bob came out and helped me pull the motor the last uphill bit. We set it on the ground so I could work on it and remove parts that might swap onto the 200TDI.

Maybe by next week I can have the new one in..................still have to find/make a intake/exhaust system.

Land Rover engine swap begun

   I got off my ass today and reluctanly started in on the engine swap. I say reluctantly cause I'm tired of working on this thing and I am still frustrated that it broke and I didn't make my trip I had hoped for to Death Valley in it.

   So I thought I would just take off the flywheel and the flywheel housing assembly as I was told I would need it for the 200tdi to mate with the Series bell housing. I knew it would be hard cause the flywheel bolts are torqued to 70# if I remember correctly (IIRC). This meant the engine would turn when I tried to turn the bolts.
    First I removed the clutch and pressure plate, I reinstalled the bolts in the flywheel and used one of them to brace a metal bar on the frame to keep the flywheel from moving. It worked and I got them all undone and removed the flywheel, then I put those bolts back in the back of the crank.
    Once the flywhell was out I could see that the rear mainseal needed to be replaced but I am not going to worry about it as I am going to shitcan this motor.

   Next I went to take off the flywheel housing, but first had to remove the starter. That's when all hell broke loose. To do this I was doing fine with undoing just the starter then I couldn't get good access to one of the bolts. So off came the exhaust manifold and then the intake manifold and a loosening of the exhaust downpipe.
    With this out of the way I could get the starter out. Then returned inside to remove the flywheel housing, using a 17mm socket and a 18" cheater bar I broke loose the 6 bolts hidden behind the flywheel but the housing refused to move. That's when I found the 2 external bolts on the top on the housing, the first one came out easy but the next was to prove difficult as I could not fit a socket or a wrench on it from the inside. Going back outside I could turn it with a combo wrench and it came most of the way out before the bulkhead interfered.
   

So then I drained the oil, removed part of the fan shroud I made along with the fan and belts, disconnected the power steering pump and removed it and the alternator. I pretty much have the LHD side done and I was 3 hours late for lunch so I cleaned everything up and stopped for the day.

Rear diff damage report

    So after dismantleing my broken diff I took all the parts in and had them hot tanked to rid them of grease and paint. This way I could do a better inspection of what was damaged and what was salvagable.

    What I found was that the differential wheels and pinions(star gears) though showing wear are all good. The spindle for the pinion shows some wear and I'd probably replace it if I was rebuilding this diff. As a precautionary move I would replace all the bearings and split pins too, cheap insurance.....

   The big finding was the 2 cracks in the differential casing(the part the ring gear bolts to). This has long cracks on the same side of the casing, likely would lead to catastophic failure. But Hey! They are 54 years old!!

Differential casing^^^
The next pics show the cracks.

also needing replacement will be the pinion oil seal and the drive flange for the bevel pinion

I did find one other disconcerting crack; this one is in one of the bevel pinion housing braces. Oddly it is not thru the brace but runs down one side..?

So all that gunk on your bevel pinion housing needs to be cleaned off and then inspect for cracks. Also if you are going to replace/check your halfshafts pull the diff out and check it for those cracks. I have heard of 2 diffs failing last year due to failure of the differential casing. And it ain't pretty when it goes!

   Lets face it we are not the only ones getting older!! ;^)

Land Rover Series gearbox rebuild part 2

I put a new rear mainshaft seal and a new distance piece on the rear of the mainshaft.

Then the clutch release mechanism was installed with a new paper gasket which I made using the hammer technique, one side was siliconed to the relase and the other side was just greased.

The rubber seal on the clutch tube was also siliconed on.

At this point I could install the tranny, but since the diff is broke no need to and I think it is a good time to start on the 200TDI swap. Crap I hope that goes well.............

Series Rover gearbox rebuild

      I had taken my new layshaft and gearbox housing to Andy's Auto Supply and had the 1st speed layshaft gear, rear layshaft bearing pressed on to the layshaft and the rear layshaft bearing race pressed into the case, $20.

     To begin with it was a struggle to get together. I started out in my unheated garage in the cold December weather, it is more like a big shed than a garage as you could fit a VW bug or a Mini in it IF it was MT.

     I had a 12x1 board across a couple of sawhorses with a hole cut in it to fit the rear of the mainshaft which protrudes thru the case. This way (as recommended in the manual) you can stand the case up and drop the various bits into place. This I did, then it hit me that because I was using some old gears in good condition that I was probably mismatching them and would have to take it all apart. This precipitated a vast search in my manuals and parts books, various websites in the US and UK for the differences between the suffix B and C gearboxes. On some I could count teeth in photos and on others the descriptions gave answers.

    Here is what I found; the "C" 1st speed layshaft gear is 14t, the 1st speed mainshaft gear is 30t. These have to match the reverse wheel assembly which in suffix "C" is a 16-19t part #561960
   
    So I had to tear the box apart and count teeth to make sure I had a matching set, which amazingly I did! I was sure with my luck I was going to have the layshaft gear removed and replaced........

     I struggled to get the layshaft and mainshaft to drop into place with lots of lifting and turning and putting on the bellhousing and taking it off for around 3 hours until my back said I needed to stop or face a relapse. What I did find was that my mainshaft needed to be a drive fit into the rear mainbearing as it wasn't letting the bell housing drop all the way on. With much finagaling I was able to put the layshaft and mainshaft in, in both vertical and horizontal( I was getting tired and frustrated with it) positions. Brian, it's easy once you've done it a dozen times!  Sheesh! I did quite a bit of pounding with my deablow hammer to get the mainshaft all the way on.

    The next day I moved everything into my warmer house.

    Out of my cold garage I made a new paper gasket for the bellhousing-mainbox as I had torn the one I made the day before. Using some posterboard and a machinist hammer I cut out a rectangle the size needed and located the studs on the paper.

Once these were located I used a hole punch to fine tune the holes, the studs would help to keep the paper in place whilst making the gasket shape.

Next the hole had to be made for the layshaft relief as it protruded above the sealing surface.

And the holes for the bolts located.

Then with light tapping with the ball end I worked my way around the inside and outside of the case forming a new gasket.

    In my lap in the dining room, tap, tap, tap........next up was to fit the pesky belhousing.

    The constant gear and distance piece need to be offered up to the primary pinion and then dropped in place on the layshaft and aligned with the mainshaft and the studs on the case all at the same time with only 2 hands. All this while not disturbing the now greased up paper gasket seal.

    I couldn't do this at the dining room table, it needed the hole cut out in the board set up in the garage. So back out into the cold, where with all my new learned knowledge I got the darn bellhousing on!

   I then put in the shifting levers and closed that all up.