Christmas 2012 in the Range Rover at Death Valley

   This is the story of my trip in the rangie over the Holidays.

     I went by myself and left a rainy Santa Cruz, the rain continued on down to just south of Salinas on Hwy 101. I left after Christmas so as to spend it with my daughters family.

   As usual I drove on down to Ridgecrest where I refueled and picked up groceries. Then I continued on to Trona Pinnacles. At TP there was only one other vehicle so I drove around looking for a good spot to camp. Finally setteling on one to the East of the ring we camped at last time even though it was a hike to the only outhouse.
   As it grew dark the wind really picked up and was blowing too hard to bother setting up the tent. As it was December and the shortest day of the year it was dark around 1800h(6pm). So I sat in the drivers seat and had my dinner, half a 12" sub I had picked up at Subway in Ridgecrest. Saving the other half for breakfast.(no cooking!)
    The wind kept on blowing and I used my headlamp to do some reading knowing I wasn't tired enough to sleep. I read for a bit and looked at my watch it was all of 1920(720pm). I had a long way to go..........finally around 2200(10pm) I was ready to sleep having read alot of my book. The back seat was cleared and I dug out my sleeping bag threw it over me and took off my shoes and jacket and tried to sleep.
    Blustery wind kept shaking the Rover. I wasn't comfortable but managed to sleep somewhat fitfully. There is nothing better than being able to stretch out and sleep! Some thing not done on that night. I awoke once the sky was light enough, it was clear and light winds. The front had passed!
    I had my breakfast and decided to explore a bit before meeting Paul at the entrance around 1000(10am). Having a vague idea from the maps and GoogleEarth I went eastward to the older tufa formation. This was my first real time taking the Rangie off road. We did steep slopes down and up and soft sand with nary a hiccup as I wandered amongst the ancient formations. See; http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/ridgecrest/trona.html

    Soon enough it became time to go meet Paul who was driving from the LA area. I waited a bit but he came along and we made plans for our trip to wind up at the saline springs in a day or 2.

 We headed over to Panamint Valley via Trona-Wildrose Rd and turned off onto the dirt to Ballarat. Once at Ballarat a right turn got us on the Wingate Rd headed south to Pleasant Canyon and the Briggs cabin. The turn onto the canyon rd is not well marked and we drove right passed it and had to turn around. Following Pauls D90 was easy enough in the Rangie but a learning experience none the less. The soft suspension in the boulders was both a luxury and a hindrence. The car worked fine and had no problems getting up to the cabins.

 On the West side of Panamint Valley on our way to the far mtns.

                               Paul going up one of the switchbacks

 Looking across Panamint Valley to the location of the above pic.

                             The entrance into Pleasant Valley Canyon

     Coming to the cabins and the flag was up at the Briggs Cabin, indicating that it was occupied. There were no cars present so we went up to take a look as sometimes peoples forget to take the flag down. Alas there was gear on the porch so we didn't enter. Instead headed down to the Stone cabin a few hundred feet away. Then we started to move in, turning on the power and water and bringing in firewood and firing up the wood stove.
     The sunset was fantastic it lit up the canyon with a golden glow. After dinner the peoples from the Briggs cabin came over and invited us up there for beer. So we went.
     Bunch of nice folks from the LA area all driving Toyota 4 door pickups. We played cards( I kicked ass!) some strange game Paul and I didn't know. Somewhere around 2200 Paul and I staggered back to the cabin and hit the sack. We tried to keep a fire going at night but it didn't burn slow enough.
     Morning was COLD! In the pics you can see icicles on the birdbath and the bathtub had a sheet of ice over it that the burros had to break thru.

Paul cooked on the porch while I just boiled water on the woodstove.

     After breakfast we packed up and headed out. Not too far down the canyon the Toyota guys passed us by. We were all headed out and over to Saline Springs. Paul and I stopped at Panamint Springs Resort to refuel and get road conditions. Soon we were off to South Pass. With Paul in the lead we went down the newly remodeled( by storms) Grapevine Canyon.
    Once at the bottom Paul went ahead as I stayed behind to keep out of the dust. Eventually we both arrived at the hot springs where Linus and Brett were waiting.

                                  Salt lake in Saline Valley

                                          Burros on the road

                                          Saline Valley dunes

                                      Camp at Saline Springs

   The next day we were off to head over Steele Pass and go hike the hidden dunes of Eureka Valley. At times for me in the Rangie I could of been driving on a paved road the ride was so smooth. Power steering was nice too! Paul realized he forgot his wallet at camp and turned back to get it as we continued on. His Defender with V8 power would catch us before the top.

                                      Sunrise on the Inyo Mtns

                             Sun coming up over the Last Chance Range

                                                           Inyos

                            View down Steele Pass to Saline Valley

                               There were snow flurries, but not much

                         Going into the south end of Dedekera Canyon

     Dedekera Canyon was going to be more hardcore off roading than I've taken the rangie thru so everyone was interested to see how it performed. I thought it and I did well but decided that the springs are too weak and need to be stiffer to prevent body roll.

                               My Rangie, Paul's 90 and Brett's 88

Soon enough we were out of the canyon and in sight of Eureka Dunes. We then skirted the dunes and headed North on Eureka Valley Rd. up to the junction with the old well road on the west side. You drive this road about 2 miles then it is a 3 mile hike to the hidden dunes.

                                      Approching hidden dunes

    The hike is fairly flat to the dunes over desert pavement, with a slight rise as you go along. You can see the dunes in a "V" notch of the surrounding hills to the West. Be sure to look back to see your vehicle so you know what direction to head back. As I was the slow poke answering natures call the others headed up the dunes. It wasn't easy climbing as it seemed 2 steps forward and sliding 1 back as we climbed the ridge line.

                                         Eventually I made it!

    Then we hopped down the side of the dune and headed back to the cars. From there it was back around Eureka Dune and thru Dedekera Canyon where the body roll put a small dent in the rear quarter panel while climbing a waterfall. Once at the top we stopped at the Marble Bath.

                        My rangie in front of the back of Eureka dune.

    Marble bath is a geologic formation listed on the topo maps. The story is that in the last century someone went looking for it and couldn't find it so they brought in a tub and filled it with marbles. When the Park aquired the land the tub was removed and after public outcry was returned for all to enjoy. Such is the desert!

     After that it was down the aluvial fan back to the springs and camp. We all stayed there for the New Year in 2 days time and made friends with fellow campers. My ankle hurt and swelled up from the hike so that the next day I hobbled around and spent most of the time in camp while the other guys went up North Pass to the Union mine and did some exploring. Linus and Brett headed out early on New Years Day and Paul followed later that day. I stayed another night before heading home myself and avoiding the returning holiday traffic. The trip up Grapevine Canyon over South Pass was the highlight of the trip home doing some of the water crossings thru frozen streams.

The last pic shows me parked on Lee Flat among the Joshua trees . I thought I'd hike over to the Black Rock well that I had read about. I found the trailhead easy enough but the trail itself petered out after about 100 yds. I could see the canyon I needed to go to but figured that it was too far for my ankle to make the trip. Plus since I was alone I didn't want to risk not getting back.
     The rest of the drive back to Boulder Creek was uneventful and I did miss the returning holiday traffic!

Range Rover in Death Valley

     Last Thanksgiving I went to DeVa with my friends Linus and Brett. I really wanted to take my Range Rover, a 1993 long wheel base, as I had not taken it off road yet. So I convinced them that since we only had a few days due to work schedules that going in 1 faster vehicle would be better, plus we would share in the trip experience by being together.
    It was an uneventful drive down, we broke up the driving by switching with every tank of fuel. After dark found us on Hwy 14 in the Mohave where we pulled off on an exit and went a short distance into the desert. Here we spread out our ground tarps and slept.

     Bright and early we were up and at it again. Heading over to Ridgecrest where we picked up groceries and fuel. Then we headed thru Trona and into Panamint Valley on Hwy 178. Going straight over to Ballarat and Indian Ranch Road. Our objective being Jail Canyon in the Panamint Range to which none of us had been.
    Indian Ranch Road wasn't bad but the road into Jail Canyon ain't nice!! Definately high ground clearance but 4x4 not needed until into the canyon itself . There it is broken up by small washes here and there with some 2ft elevation differences.
     Linus was driving up the canyon and we came to a HUGE boulder in the middle of the wash fully 20' tall. The road passes next to it and drops into a wash the width of which is about the same as the rangie. We went into  and out of it with no problem! Around the bend the going got tuffer so I scouted ahead. In a short distance it was not feasable to go on considering we were only 1 vehicle. There wasn't room to turn around so Linus backed up across the wash and parked next to the HUGE boulder.
     We had to wait there as 3 J**ps were heading into the canyon. We watched as they struggled to get across the wash we had just backed thru. Admittedly it was poor line choice not the vehicles fault that they had trouble. After they went by Linus was able to turn around and we headed out. Did I say the boulder was HUGE?
     From Indian Ranch Rd. North to  Trona-Wildrose Canyon Rd took us up the side of the Panamints to the shoulder of Telescope Peak and there we looked at the charcoal kilns. Built in the late 1870's( no-one knows exactly) the kilns were built to make charcoal for the smelters for the Minnieta/Modoc/Defense Mine, located across Panamint Valley on Lookout Mountain.

 

Brett and Linus at the kilns.

 A short drive around Mahogony Flat Campground and looking at the views down into Death Valley saw us headed down Emigrant Canyon to secure a campsite at Emigrant Campground.

 

That evening we  were visited by a kit fox at night.

 

Up before light the next morning you can see in the pic above that we have broken camp and Linus and Brett are ready for a day hike. Thier objective is a 1952 plane crash of a military Albatross. Six people bailed out over DeVa and the plane crashed on Towne Peak. It is estimated to be a 5-7 mile hike one way cross country. Starting at Towne Pass(4,956') and over Towne Peak (7,287'). They started early due to the shorter days and to take advantage of the cooler mornings.

They are the 2 dots in the center of the pic.

 

I on the other hand planned on being a tourist due to my inability to do a long hike such as this(ankle injury). So I dropped the guys off in the growing light, then headed to Panamint Springs Resort.

Once there I fueled up and headed over to Badwater, the lowest spot in North America. I was very early it being around 0800 by the time I arrived and the parking lot was MT but for 1 other car. So I took a stroll out onto the salt pan and looked around. Very stimulating in the chill of the morning and the complete sense of desolation and solitude. My gps showed -289'.

The above pics taken on Hwy 190.

 

 

Salt pan.

I took some pics of the sign for sea level it is on the cliff above the parking lot. It looks like a white line or a dot in the pics.

 

 

From there I went and visited the Devils golf course, which surprised me by how large the salt heaves/crystals grow! It is no wonder the early emigrants and miners avoided travel across this "flat"

 

 

 

  
     The cracks were knee high! Some of the holes were 4 inches across. Once I was finished stumbling around the golf course I got back in the rangie and went on the Artists drive.
     The road was surprising in that it followed the desert contour thru some of the abrupt washes. I wasn't so impressed with the Artists Palate, yes, the colors were there but seemed washed out and dull to me. Otherwise for me the landscape was the best! Something about the bare tortured hills and the vast brown vistas across Death Valley itself. And being able to look across it and see places where the 49'ers passed and being in awe of thier heroic saga some 160 years ago................then to recognize places I have been like Johnson Canyon and Trail Canyon. Knowing that DeVa has a greater elevation change than the Grand Canyon. From Telescope Peak at 11,049 to Badwater at -282 is 11,331 feet! Over 2 miles in about a 12 mile crow flight.

                               Looking across to Trail Canyon

                                             Artists palate
     After a trip to the visitors center I headed back to Towne Pass to pick up the guys. We figured they would be back around 3 but I wanted to get there early incase they finished sooner. I had a radio and so did they incase of an emergency but I had to be close to hear them. Good thing I got there early as soon after I had finished a beer and gotten bored they showed up! Below are some of the pics they took of the hike.

                                                   Linus

                                                      Brett

Last pic is looking down Dolomite Canyon into Panamint Valley and the Argus Range in the West and beyond them the Sierra Nevadas.

     Once were were collected the next adventure was to Saline Springs via South Pass Rd. Grapevine Canyon has been signed closed by the Inyo County for years but had some new weathering this last summer. We had to find out if it was passable. Going down Grapevine was indeed different than last year, instead of having 3 water crossings there were 11 washouts! Most of them had 2-4ft sides. The rangie made all of them hugging the sideslopes and dodging the boulders, it did drag the reciever in a couple of the sharp climbs out of the wash.

     The moon was up as we hit the valley floor with 30 miles of washboard road to go to get to the springs. It was dark when we got there and we soon found a campsite in the baseball field. Then it was off to the hot springs!!.........
     The next day was very nice sunny and warm in the light but if you were in the shadow the air was colder. Brett and Linus opted for another day hike over to the cinder cone to the East, with the peace sign on the side. While we were breaking camp some a**hat's dog ran over and peed on Linus's sleeping bag/pillow. Fortunately Linus had turned the ground tarp over it so it was partially protected. The dog owner just shrugged his shoulders, if he didn't see it nothing happened. We had words with him later at the springs, I was pissed at him for his attitude.
    So the guys headed off on the hike and I went over to the springs to do some reading. I think I was still working my way thru the Manly book. Sometime later Linus returned and we chatted on the lawn about his hike and plans for leaving on the morrow. Being a holiday the springs were busy, I wouldn't say crowded but due to the nice weather every one was out and not huddled around a fire at thier camp.
     After a bit a woman came to the lawn and asked if anyone wanted to play cribbage, dominos, or some other games she had brought. No one replied quickly so I figured I'd give cribbage a try as I hadn't played in years. So she came over and started setting up the board.
      I introduced myself and she responded that she was Fun Fun Debbie or Dr Fun Fun. As we played it came out that she has visted the springs for many years. I myself am a newcomer only having been there for the first time in 09.  As we played the first game she took off her dress and was sitting across from me naked. Surreally here I was, sitting in arguably the most remote part of the US, in a desert, on a grassy lawn, playing cribbage with a naked lady whom I had just met. Inconceivable!
     While I won the first 2 games as Linus watched and learned, other peoples started playing with Hula hoops and a game of Cornhole was set up. Fun Fun won the third game and wandered off to play Cornhole. Brett had come over and was trying the Hula hoops. After that he, Linus and I went back to camp.
     An evening spent in the hot springs and an early dip for Brett the next morning in the Sunrise pool saw us off headed for home up and over South pass again.

                                       Yes, that is the road!

                             Looking back down the side slope section.

     After fueling up in Olancha, Linus thought I was asleep in the back when he hit 109mph on Hwy 395. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.

     I'm not sure but I think that somewhere on this trip we bent the drag link on the steering. I found it by the extreme tyre wear on the front tyres. All in all it was a good trip!