Saturday, September 24, 2022

Snorkel on a Land Rover 109, 200TDI, Finally!

 23 Sept 2022


 It's been a long time coming, and after having some parts for years I finally put together a set up and got it done.

I picked up a snorkel top 5-6 years ago and added a 2' down pipe. Then it kicked around in my shed in a box with some other assorted potential bits as I got the 109 reliable, went through the CZU fire in 2020 and the Covid pandemic of the last couple of years. I caught it this last July, 'orrible sore throat like hot lava until the paxlovid treatment changed things.

   The snorkel has always been in the back of my mind, for a couple of reasons; I wanted the kool look factor and I wanted the cooler air for the engine/turbo from outside the engine compartment, the higher intake also got me less dust and mucho water wading ability!

 I figured I would need to move the battery to under the rear wheelwell, it turns out I only needed to move it forward 1/2".

So here is a picture of the bits I had accumulated. The top is in the upper right of the layout.



Most of this I wouldn't use. I was using a KN filter.



Wanting to fit the filter into the same space and come out the LHD wing, too mush stuff was in the way and the cylindrical filters I had were too large to fit.


After asking on line I found a Discovery 1 air filter box could be used. I found one at a scrappers near Sacramento, and had it in a few days. Part #ESR3011


I tried it in many places as I could and finally settled on between the battery and the heater blower motor. The reasons being It was the easiest to do, the intake should fit into the wing without a lot of challenges(little did I know), the exhaust to the turbo was fairly simple and straightforward.


First thing I had to do was remove the intake horn on the airbox, it just pulls out. Then I went around and measured all the possible ends, inside and out in inch and metric so I would have both when looking for bits. Most of the hose connecters and hoses are 2" or 51mm. The in and out at the airbox were a challenge as they had to be reducers. There wasn't anything I could do about the airhorn/intake side it uses a 3" x 2" (75 x 51mm) straight reducer.

On the other side of the airbox it was more complicated. I has the flange and latches to hook on the airmass sensor for the Disco 1. This was removed with one of those newfangled oscillating tools after much deliberation and searching for a suitable latching connector. Then sanded to finish it off.





This end would now be towards the rear of the engine and so needed a 90° reducer in 2-3/4" x 2" (70 x 51mm) I found one on amazon; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SCI9SC8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The rest of my silicon and aluminum tubing I bought from ; https://www.siliconeintakes.com/

Because I'm not good in math I fumbled around around a bit with angles. I bought a 180° mandrel bend 2" tube to come off the turbo to the airbox. It turned out to be too tight a bend I think a 135° would have worked. What I did was put one end of the 180 in my vise and heated up the bend and the stuck a steel tube down the free end and spread the bend wider, if that makes sense. Anywho it worked.

Here's the reducer and tubing;


Twas going to go something like this;


In my minds eye it was going to be easy;


It was apparent things would need to be moved and cut down.


First the battery was in the way. Only by a little. I struggled mightily with putting it under the wheelwell, I just can't cut a big hole in the side.....

There was a little room in the tray to slide it forward, there it hit the bolt head for my horn mount. Moving that bolt would give me the 1/2" I needed to squeeze the airbox in. So out came the battery. Now my battery is frelling MASSIVE! An AGM type I bet it weighs upwards of 80#. Not easy lifting. Once out I removed the horn mount and struggled to put in a hole lower in the edge of the tray. The trouble was I couldn't get a straight shot with the drill bits, had to drill at an angle and the spiral on the bit would catch on the inside floor edge of the tray.....plus the points wandered. Finally I used a steel tube over the bits to keep them from catching and after an hour or so FINALLY got a hole in and the horn remounted. I had to wrestle that beast of a battery back in for a test fit. All good! Whew!






 Now I could run the tubing from the turbo to the airbox and buy a filter.



Turns out I didn't need the 2' 2" tubing, Oh I hacked it up trying to make the down tube fit to the airbox and made a connector or 2 or maybe those came from the end I removed from the 180, idk.

Years ago when I thought I was smart I made a 2" long sweep 90° to let a snorkel pass through the wing. Here it is bolted to the removeable section of my wing top.


The plan was to connect this to the wing and the tubing to the airbox and more hose to the down tube, Simples! After fettling the 90 to the panel I found out that the long sweep was too long I needed a short sweep. That was due to the mounting flange and the hose interference with the fresh air valve for my heater.  %^&*()


I had spent a lot of time making it and fettling it to fit the panel.





Even shortening the underside didn't help. So I thought a 2' x 2" silicon hose would do the trick. Not wouldn't make a bend..

So I moved on to making brackets for the airbox. I made one to bolt it to the battery tray. This required a tricky bend to match the underside of the airbox, drilling a hole in the airbox welding a 1/4-20 nut on the underside of the bracket to fix the airbox on,  AND pulling out the battery again and again.....the other side comes up from the top of the bulkhead support and uses the stock mount on the side of the airbox.






I drove it around for a few days while I tried to sort out how to make the transition through the wing.

With the filter in I wasn't worried about the open end where I had stuck a 90 to keep stuff from just falling in.


I figured I need to mount the down tube to figure out the middle section. I made some templates and then some real ones out of 1/8' flat stock, and here is where I goofed up. I made 1 out of 2" and ran out of 2", went to the hardware store which was out of 2" so I bought 1-1/2" figuring on making 2 that size. Well I came home and made the second one and welded the 2" and the 1-1/2" brackets on and drilled holes in the windscreen before I caught the screwup. I used 10-24 rivnuts, figuring I can go larger should these ever fail. In the pics you can see the irregularity I put in the hole to keep the rivnut from turning.







It took a lot of trial and error to get 2 brackets to hold the downtube in place. 

After this was done I drove down to my welders in Santa Cruz and quizzed him about making something to fit between the downtube and airbox. He suggested going to to The Hose Shop and buying some stainless 45°'s or 90°'s that could be coupled or welded to fit. I went over there and talked to Ed the owner showing him my issue. He suggested a hose called Flexadux made by Flexaust with a 2"id. It has UV inhibitors and will take 350°F. I bought 2 feet. According to the mfr, Construction is a thermoplastic rubber coated super reinforced woven polyester fabric hose with a spring steel wire helix. I also came home and ordered 2, 45° 2" alli tube angles from Silicon Intakes. This did the trick with the 45's legs cut short I could make the bend and connect to the Flex hose. The 1 thing I don't like is I had to cut a larger hole in the wing panel to fit it, mainly because I didn't know what the finished size would be with trim around the hole to prevent wear on the hole/hose interface.



I took this opportunity to run my axle/gearbox breather hose up the downtube. I reused the filter I had in the engine bay, but let's face it, it sucked! Too large and fugly fitting. So I found my old spare paint spray gun filter and fitted it on, much cleaner fit!



I hooked up the valve cover oil separator by drilling a hole in the upper part of the airbox and installing a stainless steel 90° x 5/8" I found on Amazon;

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0937GNY3N/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stainless? Was the same price as plastic so why not?







Thanks to Bob on the Guns and Rovers Forum for all the help to sort this project out!


Lastly though no-one but me would probably notice it is quieter!

Thursday, March 31, 2022

Land Rover 109 roof rack now more secure

 31 March 2022


     Ever since they came out for the Toyota FJ's in the 70's I always liked the Con-Ferr racks, especially since they also fit the Series Rover. Well Con-Ferr is out of business now and one can find the old style gutter clamp these days at ; http://www.gamiviti.com/rain-gutter-towers


   The one thing I have against them is that they don't fit perfect. The bend in the outside doesn't quite fit the shape of the LR gutter and leaves it looking less secure.


The original bend;


I have a spare so I set about seeing if I could make an easy adjustment of the bend to reach further under the gutter. I came up with this;


I did it by simply holding it with vise grips and hammering the upper bend flat on the back of my vise.


There are 10 of them on my rack, one at a time they were taken off, pounded flat, reinstalled. I like the result! it looks so much more secure!



Sunday, March 6, 2022

Ukraine

 6 March 2022

I try to stay away from the political on my blog. I can stay silent no longer.


There have been quite a few pageviews from Russia in the past, these people I hope to reach out to.


Friends of Land Rovers, It is with heavy heart that I tell you that your leadership is not telling you the truth about the "Special Operations in Ukraine". We in the free world have live news broadcasts from Ukraine. There are/was no Ukrainian Nazi effort to exterminate Ukrainian Russians. And Vlad if you are being told this, YOU are being lied too!

Vlad the Invader lied. It is his war to reclaim the glory of the Soviet Union, no matter what the cost. First Crimea, now Ukraine, where next?

As of this date 1.5 million peoples have fled Ukraine to the West, mostly women and children. Too many men, women and children and Russian soldiers have died for Putin's lies.

Vlad has threatened the use of nukes if the West intervenes in his war of aggression. That is the only reason the war continues without the intervention of the Free World.

Russian friends, we hear that some 4000 of you have been arrested for protesting, for this I am sorry, I do need to ask you to continue. There is only a few ways for this madness to stop;

Russian takeover of Ukraine,

massive protests by the peoples of Russia

a coup of Vlad by sensible people,

death of Vlad.

It hurts me to know of the economic squeeze put on my a United Free world and how you the people will suffer. Know also that we too are suffering with higher food and fuel prices.

Pleas do what you can to end Putin's war.

Independent youtube video on Russian protest arrests;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miU0KoteLDs

Друзья Land Rover! С тяжелым сердцем я вам говорю, что ваше руководство не говорит вам правду о «Спецоперациях в Украине». У нас в свободном мире есть прямые трансляции новостей из Украины. Попыток украинских нацистов истребить украинских русских нет и не было. И Влад, если тебе это говорят, ТЕБЕ тоже врут!


Влад Захватчик солгал. Это его война за восстановление славы Советского Союза любой ценой. Сначала Крым, теперь Украина, что дальше?


На сегодняшний день из Украины на Запад бежало 1,5 миллиона человек, в основном женщины и дети. Слишком много мужчин, женщин, детей и российских солдат погибло из-за лжи Путина.


Влад пригрозил применить ядерное оружие, если Запад вмешается в его агрессивную войну. Это единственная причина, по которой война продолжается без вмешательства Свободного мира.


Русские друзья, мы слышали, что около 4000 из вас были арестованы за протесты, за это я прошу прощения, я должен попросить вас продолжать. Есть только несколько способов остановить это безумие;


захват Украины Россией,


массовые протесты народов России


переворот Влада здравомыслящими людьми,


смерть Влада.


Мне больно знать об экономическом кризисе, наложенном на мой Объединенный Свободный мир, и о том, как вы, народ, пострадаете. Знайте также, что мы тоже страдаем от более высоких цен на продукты питания и топливо.


Пожалуйста, сделайте все возможное, чтобы положить конец путинской войне.


Независимое видео на YouTube об арестах протестующих в России;


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miU0KoteLDs

Tuesday, March 1, 2022

Screen door for the house

 1 March 2022


I've lived in my house for nigh 32 years. My screen door I bought in the 90's and it's past its due date, I've moved the hinges on it once, it is just a cheap door, but it worked. Now it has to go. I decided this a couple of weeks ago and one of my neighbors is selling his place and moving so he gave me a bunch of  rectangular tubing which he used for wood racks.

    So I decided I could make a new screen door pretty easily......I was wrong.

Well the fab part wasn't so hard it was getting a design and materials. From another neighbor who is replacing part of his deck I got some scrap mahogany for a kick plate.

I used the old door for a template and just winged it. Here is the basic frame;


Next I designed some hinges, These had to be stout as I figured the door would be heavy. I used some 1" steel spacers with a 3/8" hole. Made the base of the hinge out of some 1/8 x 2" flat bar. I had to make them in a set to keep the size and shape the same. I required 3 hinges.


I did all this with a vise, vise grips, an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, angle grinder with a sanding flap disc, file, welder and a drill press. It took 2 days to make the hinges.

I needed to make the mahogany fit the bottom opening, it took 6 pieces. I borrowed my neighbors biscuit joiner, something I had never even seen used before and cut a groove in the wood. 


Once they were all grooved, 2 pieces of 3 boards were biscuited and glued so I could test fit;


Then it was put in the biscuits and glue for the center section and clamp tight .


A couple of days later I took it to my neighbors and we ran it through his planer, another tool I have never seen or used, and slimmed it down to fit the door thickness while carefully keeping the biscuits in the center. Once home I sanded it down.


At this point I was not sure how I was going to keep the wood from falling out. Maybe a strap across the back with screws into the wood? I figured that the wood would eventually fall out if someone kicked it too often. I settled on making some tabs and running some machine screws all the way through the wood.

I needed to make tabs.......12 of them........all the same......

Starting with 1/8 x 3/4" flat bar I measured and cut clamped them up and  shaped them and drilled the 1/4" hole for a plug weld. Then with the wood in I fitted them and welded in place.






 Next up was the screens themselves. The top one would be easy, he said, 8 more tabs and screw the screen frame to those.


Now I evenly spaced the tabs around the top opening and welded them on. Next up was to get a screen kit and make one to fit my opening, well the doors opening that is. It took me 2 kits...I made the last piece 3/4" too short somehow and I was very careful. 

   With the screen frame made I taped it to the door frame and drilled 1/16" holes for the location of the screws and screw holes. 



The holes in the tabs were drilled out to 3/16" and countersunk for the screws.



In went the screen into the frame, only my second time ever doing this! There is a learning curve, go slow don't use too much force.



Now I'm a week into this thing and haven't figured out the lower section. I wanted to put something like expanded steel in front and screen behind to keep kids and pets from running through the screen. I couldn't figure out how to attach both or find cheap expanded steel.

Soooooooooooo....8 more tabs.........


Welded in place, 3rd screen kit bought, frame made, taped in place, screw holes drilled, countersunk;


Everything torn apart and painted with Duplicolor truck bed liner.


Assembled and test fitted. I used the old latch and door closer. I still have to put on a clear coat or stain the wood.