Well, if you are a follower you know I took out the first 200 which I used to replace the 2.5DT with bad rollers. I took out the first 200 because it kept spitting oil out the exhaust and despite valve seals and a head job and eventually a different head I went with a long block from the UK for a replacement last Autumn.
It stopped raining long enough so I decided to tear the old one apart and see what was wrong inside.I started with what had been sitting under a tarp.
First removed the ladder frame;
Then unbolted the crank bearings;
You can see some were quite worn.
Unbolted the connecting rods and pulled the crank out;
It looks pretty good considering.
Then out came the pistons starting with #1. #2 I had to pound out with some wood blocks;
#2
#3
#4
I kept everything organized
Removed the lifters and rollers;
Then bagged the rollers and removed and bagged the bushing for the oil pump/vacuum pump.
After it was all apart I got to examine things. I found #2 was/is a wreck. Gouges in the cylinder wall and rusting.
Then on to #2 piston. It looks that the bottom piston ring was installed wrong or it had catastrophic failure at some point.
Likely scenario, It is a STD piston so maybe the factory guy put it in and the ring compressor wasn't quite on right and the ring caught on the edge of the cylinder, so he slammed it in with a block of wood or a wooden hammer and the ring lifted and the spring popped out. But hey it ran and it was late Friday after all......
It went into a Disco that always had oil issues and got scrapped under the lemon law(does UK have one?) and trickled down the supply chain to me.
Hey, I know, I know, I've been doing the cooker and the kegger so have loads of options for cooking, which is what I want. Sometimes you just don't want your food covered in soot...
A few years back I bought a used Coleman 2 burner stove and refurbished it. It burns white gas and fits my door table nicely. I needed a place to store it in my 109 whilst traveling. Well, I finally hit upon a place and way to make it happen.
My 109 does not have the rear roof side windows so there is no need to worry about blocking them and if you read about my camp shower you can see that I used that space on the LH side for it. Now I am using the RH side for the stove mount.
First I checked it to see if it would indeed fit by holding it up there and then mentally designing a mount. I went through this elaborate design and spent a couple of hours cutting and bending some steel to make a sleeve to slide the stove in and out. I got about halfway thru being done and realized I could do it easier.......
You can see I went through a LOT to get this far with the sleeve, only to abandon the notion.
I used some 3.5" x 3/16" flat stock I had left from my roof rack. At first I tried bending a 90° in it with heat and a hammer but that proved fruitless and I wrecked 6" of the plate. I resorted to cutting and welding a 90 on the other end. On the upright section I welded a 1" x 1/8" that I put a 90° bend on to fit the mounting hole I had made for the ill conceived sleeve project. That mounting hole was put in the stiffening strut under the window with a 1/4 -20 riv-nut.
I marked and drilled 2 holes in the bottom plate for the mount into the bottom of the roofside, the photo for that was really blurry so I deleted it. I did end up with these 1/4" holes.
I guess I should say that in the above photo you can see the solid rivets, well they were one of the reasons I gave up on the sleeve idea as they took a lot of shimming to make a solid support for the original sleeve idea. The new idea just uses the central portion of the bottom. there was a a hitch though.........the bottom section is not at a 90° with the back, you can see the lean in this photo;
It causes a gap between the top of the upright and the stove:
I kept moving the hole for the side mount until I got close enough for government work.
During this time I also was working out how I was going to secure the stove and the fact that while the stove fit good there is a lot of space at the back on the window side. Half an inch to be exact and that caused the stove to flop around. I was going to put a piece of 1/2" ply behind it but I don't have any scraps.
I managed to kill 2 birds with one stone though, I've been wondering how to store my knee cushion and while thicker it fits GREAT!
I added a loop on the window side of the upright to run a bungee cord thru to hold the stove.
After many put-ins and take-outs this is finally what I wound up with;
The side bracket is held on with a 1/4 -20 bolt and the bottom plate is 1/4 -20 flat head phillips machine bolts so the bottom plate has recessed holes.
I just hooked the bungee on the inside gutter by the door and ran it thru the side loop and on the door side I put in a 1/4 -20 eyebolt and hooked it to that. It is all nice and solid!
The bungee keeps the handle from rattling around;
I was concerned with the door closing and hitting the eyebolt but thankfully there is room.
You can see that the stove does not take up much of the opening and is easily accessible for when cooking time rolls around!
I have had this old MT beer keg for over 30 years, using it as a step into part of my shed, always thinking I was going to make one of those kool keg fuel tanks. Never happened as they don't lend themselves very well to Land Rover design. So it sat and since I was using it and it wasn't taking up much space I let it be.
Then while watching videos on cooking in Australia; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUeWRnIFYw0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5434lTcxfw I saw how they had buried the firepit and used a piece of metal culvert for a fire break. Thank you Auntie Junie and Roy!
Here in the States there is lots of open land called BLM land, for Bureau of Land Management, a branch of the Federal Gubment. On that land and some places in the National Forest you can camp anywhere but you can not have a fire outside of an existing fire ring(campsite) or make a new fire ring. It is to cut down on wildfires and unsightly fire rings and black patches of ground willy nilly everywhere. With this kegpit I can contain my fire and not leave a black patch and makes it easy to collect my ashes for "Leave no trace".
I went to bed that night and while my mind was kinda still and focused I realized I could cut up my ol keg and it would have the same effect. I got up the next morning and set out to see if it was workable.
My keg would not give me the wind break height I really desired because I figured I could make 2 of them if I split it right. Using painters tape and real paint I marked out my cut and with my last 1/16' cutting wheel on my angle grinder began to see how far I could get. Sizing up the shape I decided to bisect the hole in the side, it appeared to be over an inch thick and my cut-off wheel wouldn't go thru it.
It took every cutting tool I have to finish cutting the keg apart. I started with the angle grinder, went to my jigsaw and it broke the blade holding lever, I used my Dremel tool with its tine cut-off wheel, but to get thru the thick hole in the side I resorted to my saber saw with an 18 tooth blade. Doing it again I go for the cut-off wheel to start and then right to the saber saw for the rest. But then I don't have a plasma cutter.....
Typically for me I got so involved I didn't take any pics of the above action. I did however wind up with this;
One side was the bottom
The other the top with the fill/vent tube, which I removed
side view
I could have gone for a taller wind break but at the expense of a shallower fire pit. Here's my first trial fire. It gave plenty of heat and though it was a windy day I didn't have ashes or embers blowing around.
The ashes just sat there after the fire died out.
I had the idea that I could cook on it either with a grill or a camp/dutch oven. I had purposely cut the keg so there would be a rim around it to hold a grill. This turned out to be 16" diameter. I can only find existing grills in 14.5", 18" or 22". So I think I will have some internal brackets welded to hold a 14.5" grill. My welder won't do stainless so I have to send it out.
But, I noticed that the fill material at the side hole was aluminum and that fell into my plan to make a crane and use the Kegpit for cooking with a Dutch/Camp oven. First I had to get a Camp Oven....I was going to wait and find one at a yard sale or fleamarket, but I decided that I wanted the smaller size. When talking with a local retailer they said they can't keep the 10" ovens in stock. I wanted an 8"(2qt) for just me and maybe 1 other.
When my Lodge camp oven came in I first sized up the positioning for it in the kegpit.
I marked and centerpunched the location to drill.
And step drilled it out to 5/16", one thing that I thought I had compensated enough for was the arc for the inside of the side hole it was farther than I estimated and made my hole shorter than I wanted.
I used my vise and devised a way to make a dent(?) in the end of my crane and proceeded to bend some 5/16" rod and with some careful guessing I got the dent somewhat centered.
The crane is free to pivot
Testing the fit with the camp oven
The legs on the camp oven didn't clear the side and at first I was just going to let it go, but it bothered me. Here is the crane painted with high temp silver paint..
So I made a 1" taller crane
Now the camp oven can swing out from the fire. It can swing some 120° easily without tipping. I painted the second crane and here it a pic showing the difference.
Now as long as the aluminum doesn't melt out............... I was just looking at the text and pictures, I wonder if I need to add a brace on the angle of the crane? Maybe when it gets hot it might want to bend? Perhaps a double bar arm....
NEXT DAY
Well, I just took some leftover 5/16" rod and bent one end and cut the other to fit and welded it up. It's Ugly, but it works. Hopefully will help prevent a catastrophe.
Test fit;
painted;
28.2.19 today it stopped raining long enough to try my Kegger pit and camp oven out. I just did a simple meal for lunch and it came out great! Watch the video to see how it went!
The final piece to the puzzle is done! after making lunch yesterday and feeling, well, successful, I went to the hardware store and bought a 17" grill, just the grill, you know the part that holds the coals for a 22" Weber BBQ.
Once home I set about fitting it to the inside of my kegger where there is a ring around the keg. The ring is 16" so I had to cut the circumference ring on the grill fit it to the kegger and then tack weld on the rest of the grill. Once it was tack welded I laid it flat and finished welding the straight bars and cleaned it up. Man I wish I had a TIG welder.......
Anywho it fits and should work good as a grill over the fire/coals.
Looking at it from the side;
So I have been pondering how to travel with this sooty beast. Comparatively it has a large footprint of about 19-20". Since mine has the 2 holes in the bottom I figured I could make use of those.
What I didn't want was this thing sticking up on top of the roof rack or protruding like a wart from the side. I tried to figure out how I could attach it to my bike rack on the back or the spare tire mount, but it is too large.
What I wound up with was a pedestal I made from 2 old jackstands welded together the right length. Both ends were ground flat as I could get them with my angle grinder and a flapdisc. On one end I drilled and tapped 2 holes the right placement for matching the holes in the kegger.
After careful placement and measuring this was welded to the tongue of my trailer.
Now the firepit is outside and easy access.
The bad is where do I put the grill and I need a wrench to take it off/put it on, but so will a thief.
On the + side it makes a good bell!
24 Mar 2019, update;
Used it!
Works great. Plus I learned 2 things about it.
1) pain in the ass to line up the bolt holes to remount. So I decided to make some studs and weld them in. It is complicated by the fact that I can't get to the underside to weld in the studs and had to do it from the side. On one hole it was easy as I just enlarged the side hole to 3/16", cleaned up the threads and ran the stud in and welded it on. Then I ground the weld flat so the kegger would sit flush.
On the second stud, which I made both studs out of 3/8"-24 bolts, I used my dremel tool to make a side hole thru which I then welded.
While it still takes some fiddling it is an easier mounting option.
2) When mounted on the trailer the kegger collects water when it rains. So I used my dremel and a cutoff wheel to make 4 holes in the bottom for drainage. Two can be seen in the above photo and the other 2 are in the outer section, seen below.
Now to figger out the grill mount......
Update May 17 2019.
Well I'm still working on the grill mount, I wish I had a stainless grill...., but I did get something done!
I added some short legs.
Now it sits about 4" above the ground, enough to get your toes under in cold weather. ;^) I'm looking for some tubing to make some longer legs to just slide over these. Once again welded on by Daren at Arc-Tec.
Now the fuel can mount interfered with the kegger mounting. In the pic you can see that the 1 bolt lined up but that the other one closer to the body did not.
The cross brace just kept the kegger too far out.
So the crossbar had to go. Short work for the jigsaw. And ......viola!
I made a plastic spacer for the nuts.
Now it is on!
Update; 22 May 2019
I scrounged around and found 3 drag link-tie rod pieces and found that they fit perfectly over the welded on legs. Then I spent some time and effort to make them all the same length. I won't bore you with the details but it had it's moments....
Here is a trial fit;
I had to heat the welded on legs and line them up to be a better tripod configuration as 1 was slanted to the side and 1 was too vertical. Once satisfied that the angles were all good I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in the new legs as the kegger was kinda wobblie and set screws would tighten it up, or so I thought.
The bolts are too hard to tighten enough by hand so I am going with some 1/4-20 eyebolts. I am going to have to get 3 the same size.
And the final look;
This brings the grill up to IIRC 32" off the ground.
