Fuel injection pump, 200tdi

I know it has been a while since I have posted and to be honest life, well death really, got in the way. I heard last autum that my last brother was dying. Waiting on that event and my lack of extra funds kept my Rover/camping desires down to zed. My brother passed Dec 2 and then there was the wait to find out the services schedule. Waiting on this and knowing I only had the money for 1 trip anywhere kept me from joining my friends at Death Valley over the Holidays. It did give me some real time for soul searching. Turns out they scheduled the services for Jan 2. and the cost to fly there doubled so I couldn't go anyway.

   I have been conserving my cash supply by not driving and cutting my bills so I can afford to eat, yes, really. That combined with a really wet winter has kept me home lots and in Jan, I discovered that my fuel injection pump was leaking from the o-ring on the cover of the advance plunger. Doing my due diligence on the web I found out that I could take the cover off and nothing would fall out and replace the offending o-ring. Ordering 2 new o-rings from Diamond Diesel I set about on my spare FIP to see how it was going to go. Damn they used torx bolts so I had to go buy the right tool. Damn, the bolts were so tight the tool would just cam out. I had to use a vise grips to get one of the bolts out and I decided to replace them with allen head bolts. Of course they are metric....... I got enough to do both pumps plunger covers. I did get the spare cover off and took out the old o-ring and put in the new one. Simples enough I can do the one on the engine now.
    Or so I thought, the bolts on the plunger cover were so hard to get at and 1 of them needed to be removed with vise grips I struggled for about 3 hours to get just the bottom side o-ring replaced. Whew! Then I fired up the engine to check my work, the new o-ring did not leak! Yay! Now it was leaking from somewhere hard to tell. It took awhile but I found out it was the o-ring that seals the head of the pump.

Here is a pic of my spare FIP, the head is the rusty bit on the left and the plunger cover is on the bottom center of the body.

Then it was back to the web and see what the heck was needed to fix this. Was I going to have to pull the pump and send it in? or could I do it myself?

That is when the storm hit that dropped some trees on my neighbors house. I helped him remove them it took us a week of hard work, I was soooo sore! Here's a couple of pics;

Back to the FIP;  Online I found out that the leaking head o-ring is fairly common on the Bosch VE pump. It is a fairly common pump on VW's and other diesels. The Vdub guys have figured out that one can slightly remove the head and cut off the old o-ring and slide a new one on all in place. I watched the video a few times and bought the kit for my pump. Then I practiced on my spare pump!
 Putting it in my vise, I cleaned it up and removed all the torx bolts but 1,

You can see in the upper pic there is a new bolt which comes with the kit. It is 59mm long and when screwed all the way in and the opposite bolt is removed allows the head to come out enough to expose the o-ring.

Then you can cut the old o-ring off and slip the new one on over the injector ports and the head and into the groove. You have to do a little juggling with the bolts but it goes on fine. I used some curved probes to keep the o-ring from stretching too much.


After it was dry outside I decided to try it on the engine pump. The timing pin has to be placed in the timing slot on the pump and that was a learning experience for me. I found out that in order to correctly time the 200 that there is a pin which needs to be installed in the drain for the flywheel housing when #1cyl is a TDC. Only then can the timing pin for the FIP be inserted in the pulley. My issue now became that since my 109 was not designed with the 200TDI in mind that the cross member blocked access to the drain hole in the flywheel cover. Heck I can't even see it......

  So that got me thinking that I was going to have to either pull the engine or cut the cross member to be able to set the timing..... neither of which I wanted to do. I agonized over how to cut the cross member and make it removable because the timing belt should be replaced every 60,000 miles. Lots of thinking and asking on forums and looking at videos online during the rainy Feb.
   Finally the weather dried for a few days and I took the fuel lines and the injector lines off the pump, I put in the timing pin and removed the bolts except 1 on the injector head. Then using the supplied bolt I loosened the last bolt and slid the head back. When the o-ring exposed itself I pulled it up and cut it off. Then I slid the new o-ring carefully over the cleaned head and evenly bolted it back together. Next the fuel lines and injector lines were put on and the engine mount to pump and finally the stop solenoid wire and then the timing pin removed and the cover put back on. The system was bled and I turned over the engine, and turned over the engine. It wouldn't quite catch, but then it caught but only on 1 cylinder. WTF? I could tell by the warm exhaust manifold that only #4 was firing. No matter how much I bled it the results were the same, only #4 would fire. I had fucked up! I went from a leaky pump to one that wouldn't work.

Lucky for me we had more rain and I had more time to check the web. At the time I figured that somehow I had knocked the timing off as nothing else had changed. Now I HAD to figure out how to cut out the cross member and set the flywheel timing.......

During some of the drier days I putzed about in the garage with the spare pump. I figured that if I had to send one it to get fixed it wouldn't matter which one it was. It was about this time that I ran my camera thru the washing machine and that's why I don't have a lot of pics of this job.
Here is a pic of the head coming off my spare. When you take the head off all those springs fall out of place and I hadn't yet watched a video on how to disassemble or reassemble the VE pump.

Not dissuaded I figured that perhaps I had opened the pump on the engine too far and the springs had fallen out of place. This meant that I would have to time the pump and remove it and open it up and put the springs back in position. I spent hours searching the web for an illustrated parts breakdown on the Bosch VE pump #0 460 414 069 for the Land Rover LR # ERR0459. Someone found a diagram but as of yet I have no names for the parts.  I watched several videos from both the manufacturer and various mechanics. Thanks Webslinger!
   Girding my loins I went out on a dry day and I figured out that I didn't need to set the flywheel timing I just needed the timing pin in the injector pump and then lock the injector and pull it out.
injector pin in;

timing on crank pulley set;

injector timing pulley locked;

starting to remove the FIP;

pump is out;

and in the vise;

I opened it up just enough to see if the springs had fallen out of place. Unfortunately I couldn't tell because they fell when I opened it up. So I got them back into place, took me over an hour, and reinstalled it in the engine. When I cranked it over it would not start at all............I bled it, it was getting fuel. I thought maybe the stop solenoid had failed so I searched the web on how to check them. I must have really upset the timing was the only other thing I could think of. While the pump was out I took the opportunity to replace the broken engine mount under it.

 While down there if found a small spring much like what you would see in an ink pen. I wondered how long it had been down in the mud and set it aside. After searching the web I decided to pull the solenoid on my spare and check it and I found that it had a spring inside exactly like the one I had found. So I pulled the solenoid on the engine pump and sure enough it was missing the spring.

A week or so later I pulled the pump again. This time I delved deeper into the innards as I thought perhaps I had not set the fuel plunger metering ring on the govenor pin. This turned out to be true but also exposed something else. The shim between the fuel plunger and the cam disk was broken;
You can see the bits in the center section below;

I was lucky and all the bits were in the center and I was able to remove them with a magnet on a probe. That and I opened up my spare pump and swapped out the damaged fuel plunger, shim and cam disk. I put it all back together using vasoline to hold the springs in position during reassembly.
Made new gaskets for the timing cover;

And reinstalled the pump, bleed the crap out of it...again.... and cranked it over, and cranked it over. Now what? Oh the stop solenoid power wire had fallen off.... Hooked that back up and Vroom!

As a side note this engine has always been stubborn to start. I would turn the key and from in the cab it seemed that the starter would engage for a few moments and then disengage or not engage but spin anyway. Sometimes taking half a dozen or more tries to start. Since fixing the FIP it has started on the first crank w/o glowplugs 6 successive times. This makes me think that perhaps that is why this engine was pulled in the first place.

I am soooo glad it is running!