Land Rover rear door table

    I have been working on a table for the inside of my rear door on the 109. What I came up with had to be simple, sturdy, easy to clean. So I purchased at my local plumbing house(George Wilson) a piece of 24x16" 16ga stainless sheet metal for less than $20US. It cost me almost that much for the 30" of stainless piano hinge at the hardware store (Ace).
     Cutting the hinge down to 23" I laid it out on the back of the door so it would fit above the door stop and behind the handle. Next I drilled and set 4 rivenuts of the 10-24 persuasion. On these I mounted the hinge in place and held the sheet to see if it would work and what I needed to do to make it fit. I had to cut it down to 13.5" to clear the cot support.
     Cutting it down was harder than I thought it would be. My jig saw just turned red hot after about 1/4". So I put a metal cutoof blade in my circular saw. This cut OK but would veer off the line too easy. I finally got a straight cut by clamping a straight edge for the saw to follow. Then I cleaned up the edges and rounded off the corners.
    I don't have the kit to weld stainless so it was off to Daren the welder. He welded the hinge to the sheet. Once back home I screwed the hinge onto the door. Side supports were next and a clasp to keep it stowed. I had thought to just superglue rare earth magnets to the sheet and let them hold it up. But the warpage from the welding pulled the sheet too far away from the door for the magnets to hold(strong as they are).
   I have some old chain I used in making windchimes so I thought to use that for supports. I drilled 2 holes in the sides of the sheet about 3.5" from the end. In these I hooked the ends of the chain and then hooked them on the door in a couple of easy places but it just was cumbersome.
   So off to the store where I picked up some 1/8" cable and crimps. These were placed on the sheet and then I had to figure out where and how to hold the upper end.
   Measuring off the same distance on each side I drilled and installed 2 more rivenuts. Then bent 2 washers and drilled holes in the bent bit. The cable was passed thru the hole, the washer screwed in the rivenut and the sheet adjusted to 90 degrees and the cable crimped. The cable is rated for 95#(lbs).
    The clasp was made from a piece of stainless I have laying around. I drilled 2 holes; 1 larger than the 10-24 screw and one tapped for the 10-24 screw. The ends were rounded and all polished. Once again I located a spot and installed a 10-24 rivenut, here the pivot screw was loctited and placed. Then the handle screw(3/4") was installed with a locknut.

DONE!

                                                     Open

                                                   Stowed

                                                   Clasp

                                                  Upper support