I pulled the oil pan yesterday. Thankfully I found the missing chip off the #8 tappet guide. There was alot of sludge in the bottom.
Then I went down to Santa Cruz and picked up my new door pulls from Daren at Arc-Tec. He made them out of stainless steel tubing. In the pic you can see one of the OEM pulls below the new ones. The OEM pull has been wire brushed and sprayed with cold galvy.
Friday, September 27, 2013
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
2.5 land rover motor repair
OK, Well I started on the motor repair. Some of the parts came in and I'm still waiting on others. Today I drained the engine oil and removed the right wing and radiator with the support panel still attached.
The camshaft, tappetguide assemblies are all here. The rocker arms and the timing kit should be here next week.
Here is todays pic;
Last week I put on the leather wheel cover I got from Pangolin4x4.
The camshaft, tappetguide assemblies are all here. The rocker arms and the timing kit should be here next week.
Here is todays pic;
Last week I put on the leather wheel cover I got from Pangolin4x4.
Thursday, September 12, 2013
Land Rover rear door table
I have been working on a table for the inside of my rear door on the 109. What I came up with had to be simple, sturdy, easy to clean. So I purchased at my local plumbing house(George Wilson) a piece of 24x16" 16ga stainless sheet metal for less than $20US. It cost me almost that much for the 30" of stainless piano hinge at the hardware store (Ace).
Cutting the hinge down to 23" I laid it out on the back of the door so it would fit above the door stop and behind the handle. Next I drilled and set 4 rivenuts of the 10-24 persuasion. On these I mounted the hinge in place and held the sheet to see if it would work and what I needed to do to make it fit. I had to cut it down to 13.5" to clear the cot support.
Cutting it down was harder than I thought it would be. My jig saw just turned red hot after about 1/4". So I put a metal cutoof blade in my circular saw. This cut OK but would veer off the line too easy. I finally got a straight cut by clamping a straight edge for the saw to follow. Then I cleaned up the edges and rounded off the corners.
I don't have the kit to weld stainless so it was off to Daren the welder. He welded the hinge to the sheet. Once back home I screwed the hinge onto the door. Side supports were next and a clasp to keep it stowed. I had thought to just superglue rare earth magnets to the sheet and let them hold it up. But the warpage from the welding pulled the sheet too far away from the door for the magnets to hold(strong as they are).
I have some old chain I used in making windchimes so I thought to use that for supports. I drilled 2 holes in the sides of the sheet about 3.5" from the end. In these I hooked the ends of the chain and then hooked them on the door in a couple of easy places but it just was cumbersome.
So off to the store where I picked up some 1/8" cable and crimps. These were placed on the sheet and then I had to figure out where and how to hold the upper end.
Measuring off the same distance on each side I drilled and installed 2 more rivenuts. Then bent 2 washers and drilled holes in the bent bit. The cable was passed thru the hole, the washer screwed in the rivenut and the sheet adjusted to 90 degrees and the cable crimped. The cable is rated for 95#(lbs).
The clasp was made from a piece of stainless I have laying around. I drilled 2 holes; 1 larger than the 10-24 screw and one tapped for the 10-24 screw. The ends were rounded and all polished. Once again I located a spot and installed a 10-24 rivenut, here the pivot screw was loctited and placed. Then the handle screw(3/4") was installed with a locknut.
DONE!
Open
Stowed
Clasp
Upper support
Cutting the hinge down to 23" I laid it out on the back of the door so it would fit above the door stop and behind the handle. Next I drilled and set 4 rivenuts of the 10-24 persuasion. On these I mounted the hinge in place and held the sheet to see if it would work and what I needed to do to make it fit. I had to cut it down to 13.5" to clear the cot support.
Cutting it down was harder than I thought it would be. My jig saw just turned red hot after about 1/4". So I put a metal cutoof blade in my circular saw. This cut OK but would veer off the line too easy. I finally got a straight cut by clamping a straight edge for the saw to follow. Then I cleaned up the edges and rounded off the corners.
I don't have the kit to weld stainless so it was off to Daren the welder. He welded the hinge to the sheet. Once back home I screwed the hinge onto the door. Side supports were next and a clasp to keep it stowed. I had thought to just superglue rare earth magnets to the sheet and let them hold it up. But the warpage from the welding pulled the sheet too far away from the door for the magnets to hold(strong as they are).
I have some old chain I used in making windchimes so I thought to use that for supports. I drilled 2 holes in the sides of the sheet about 3.5" from the end. In these I hooked the ends of the chain and then hooked them on the door in a couple of easy places but it just was cumbersome.
So off to the store where I picked up some 1/8" cable and crimps. These were placed on the sheet and then I had to figure out where and how to hold the upper end.
Measuring off the same distance on each side I drilled and installed 2 more rivenuts. Then bent 2 washers and drilled holes in the bent bit. The cable was passed thru the hole, the washer screwed in the rivenut and the sheet adjusted to 90 degrees and the cable crimped. The cable is rated for 95#(lbs).
The clasp was made from a piece of stainless I have laying around. I drilled 2 holes; 1 larger than the 10-24 screw and one tapped for the 10-24 screw. The ends were rounded and all polished. Once again I located a spot and installed a 10-24 rivenut, here the pivot screw was loctited and placed. Then the handle screw(3/4") was installed with a locknut.
DONE!
Open
Stowed
Clasp
Upper support
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