Friday, April 15, 2011

109 fuel tank and bad wiring

Well, on Thursday I decided to pull the fuel tank. when We had it running at the PO's we had to put the draw tube in a can of new clean fuel to run.
First I drained the remaining 1.5 gallons of fuel from 2003. Then I pulled the cover off and removed the draw tube. I could not reach the nut holding on the wire to the sender unit so I cut it off. I then set about trying to find the right size wrenches for the mounting hardware. I could get a 1/2 on the nuts for the front and took 2 off and loosened the last one.
The 3 in the rear were much harder to do. first I could not find the top/unseen parts of the hardware. I spent about 15 minutes until I finally found them in a small recess inside the outrigger. Of course the 1/2 spanner would not fit. Oh, I could still use my 1/2 socket on the bottom but the inside ones turned out to be 13mm.
Finally I removed those and then took out the front remaining one of the unsupported tank. I fully expected it to fall to the ground??? Ummm did not undo the fill hoses yet... Set to them with a screwdriver and it still did not fall.......A little shove and WHAM!!! it hit the ground.
Scooching it out from underneath I took it over to a bucket and drained the remains,,,,YUCK! The inside of the tank was covered in rust and a 1/8in layer of rust chips covered the bottom.
Time for a new tank! I have a NOS tank been sitting in the back of my daughters 88 since 1996. So I dragged it out from under the junk and peaked inside. Some light surface rust and I am not sure I can save it. I can use it but it will rust out eventually. Perhaps after I have passed,,....
I then went to work on the heavily corroded fuel sender unit. The float will not move. I cleaned off the corrosion and lubed up the float shaft with some Slick 50.

Then I removed the top and peered inside, nothing looked broken or jammed so out came the Vise Grips and I put pressure on the float shaft. Slowly it gave way to torque and after about a half dozen rotations it was sufficently free to move by itself!
I put it all back together and painted it. Painting tells me I am finished with that job.

Moving on I put my daughters battery in and hooked up the cables. Turning on the light switch revealed that the head lights don't work, There is no horn(in a box). The dash panel was ziptied to the bulkhead so I cut it loose and found the PO had replaced some(all) the wires comming off the ignition with red wires.And Yes the ground wires are white.....

Of course you can't tell where they go to.... They all will have to come out anyway either to replace the bulkhead or paint it. So probably looking at a new wiring harness.
Then I quit for the day.

Today I did some online research for the seal necessary to do the roof and bulkhead. The trouble I'm having is the books and suppliers all list roof seals for a 109 Station Wagon(5door) while my 109 is a regular(3 door). I think they would take different seals as the sides are twice as long. I could be wrong but I dislike making the mistake and having to wait while the correct part is shipped.

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like some good progress Gene. I recommend taking the time to make up your own wiring harness. British Pacific carries all of the proper wire, and it will allow you to design things exactly the way you want it as well. Probably cheaper too. RDS has the proper seal for the windscreen to bulkhead and windscreen to roof, they are the same. Really, you can go to ACE and get the exact same stuff. Better yet, order online from McMaster Carr and get all of your bolts, pop rivets, right stuff, etc. POR has a paint for gas tanks, might be worth it. An orbital sander works best for removing the adhesive that remains after removing the headliner.

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